In this video, Kirby Allison goes through an overview of Italian shoemaking company Stefano Bemer, looking at how to make a beautiful Italian shoe. The company was generous enough to loan us someshoes from their 3 different collections, the Essenziale, the Classica, and the Tradizione.
‘The Essenziale is a small collection of Goodyear welted shoes Stefano Bemer offers in a fixed number of sizes and colors. The idea of the essenziale came from Simon Crompton. The concept is a collection of 10 styles every man should have in his closet, that’s why the name ‘Essenziale’ = ‘essential’ in English, comes from. They start at €850. They come with their wooden shoe box and individual shoe bags.
‘Next up is the Classica line which is Stefano Bemer’s famous RTW line. The thought behind this collection is to still offer clients who do not need bespoke a shoe with as much bespoke elements build into it as possible. All the uppers of the classica shoes are hand clicked. The uppers are hand lasted. The welt is sewn to the insole by hand. (Explain hand welting with the shoe sections). The outer sole is later stitched to the welt by machine. Available RTW and MTO.
‘The third shoe we have is a RTW shoe made in the tradizione line. The tradizione is made to the exact same standard as the bespoke, it has hand-sewn shanks creating either a beveled or a fiddle-back waist (whatever client wants). It really is by all means a bespoke shoe only made on a standard last. The fiddle back is made by preparing the shank in the V shape. Then the side portions of the waist of the outsole are skived to half of the thickness. The outer sole is then attached to the bottom and the fiddle is hammered to shape. Tradizione price: 1650. Comes with their wooden box and lasted shoe trees.
Get in touch with Stefano Bemer:
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