Grand-opening Saturday, LCA's a next-level incarnation of Don Panza, a shuttered Argentine resto in Clarendon whose name got it frequently mistaken for a Mexican place; in a refurbished house equipped with an L-shaped, downtown-facing patio, the new spot's cozily wooded interior features a wavy stone-topped bar, a ceiling-mounted wagon wheel, and a mannequin wearing a showy gaucho outfit -- not as hot as Kim Cattrall, but then again he wouldn't talk about having sex with dudes 1/3 his age. Executed by the husband-wife owners (he's Mexican, she's Argentine -- they met as Sterling Hotel co-workers), the broadened traditional menu kicks off with starters like tartas (ham & cheese pie), chimichurri'd veal-stuffed house-baked rolls, and a ham/Swiss/bleu cheese cake roll, plus 11 baked-or-fried empanadas packed with the likes of spinach, ham, spicy beef, and hard-boiled eggs, too many of which'll make you chow-yun fat. Mains include large ricotta-packed ravioli with Argentine sausage, heart-healthy sandwiches (the "Lomito": ham/thin steak/Swiss, w/ fried eggs & from-scratch mayo), and the 14oz "Churrasco" steak; there's also mozzarella'd Argentine pizza with toppings like ham, skirt steak, hearts of palm, and...more fried eggs -- so if you're wondering why you put fried eggs on everything, it's because your mom took a trip to Buenos Aires 9 months before you were born.

1115 N Beckley Ave; Oak Cliff; 214.944.5300

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