(4 Mar 1999) English/Nat
Armani shows off his wild side
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On Monday it was the turn of the normally sedate GIORGIO ARMANI to show off his funky side with the latest collection from his young EMPORIO line during Milan Fashion Week.
This was a collection bursting with colour with daytime styles that took their inspiration from sports wear with lots of zip-up hooded jackets. Trousers are loose with a rolled waist effect.
Buttons are out for the millennium with the collection making lots of use of visible velcro straps.
For evening wear it was sequined velcro straps on transparent tops and matched with fluffy skirts and sweaters. The colours were very un-Armani ranging from vivid greens, blues and reds contrasted with the normal sedate black and greys.
The blaze of colour reached a crescendo with a set of fringed skirts in wild, bright hues of vivid primary colours and a set of fringed jackets worn over bare skin.
ANTONIO FUSCO produced a fall-winter collection where the emphasis was on longer coats and narrower silhouettes and with the look firmly in the field of easy to wear luxury in a set of futuristic yet romantic designs.
This was a collection pitched his halfway between tradition and innovation. Clean-cut silhouettes are emphasised by jackets and trousers with a masculine side, at times softened by the sinuous lines of long and enveloping coats.
The colours run the whole gamut of what Fusco describes as the unostentatious luxury of his collection.
Light colours for the day: the natural whites of rich wools mixed with absolute black; the greys of the indefinite shades of stone matched with the chromatic softness of dove grey.
For DAVID FIELDEN, Milan gave him a chance to show off his new collection based on fairytale imagery.
Fielden sees his collection as a return to his roots, so he takes us on a fabled trip, where the unexpected is seen through the eyes of a romantic sprite.
And of course the make-up also has to match the mood of the show, with more than a hint of tribalism in the war paint.
As in a real fable, woman takes centre stage and captures the audience in her spell.
Fielden's clothes are vaporous and draping, from another time.
They're distinguished by precious fabrics, constructed cuts and attention to details.
The result is a refined sensuality infused with typical British eccentricity.
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