When we talk about "truing dart bulk" in sewing, we're referring to a process that involves reducing excess fabric around darts to create a smoother, more streamlined finish. Darts are folds or tucks in fabric that are used to shape garments, often found at the bust, waist, or hip areas.
Here's a step-by-step explanation of truing dart bulk:
1. **Sew the Dart:** First, you'll sew the dart following the pattern instructions. Darts are typically sewn as a V-shape that starts wide and tapers to a point.
2. **Press the Dart:** After sewing the dart, press it according to the pattern guidelines. This sets the stitches and helps the fabric take on the desired shape.
3. **Trim Excess Fabric:** Truing dart bulk involves trimming away excess fabric from the dart area. This excess fabric can create a bulky or bumpy appearance, especially if you're working with thicker fabrics or multiple layers.
4. **Reduce Bulk:** To reduce bulk, carefully trim the excess fabric close to the dart stitching line. Be cautious not to cut into the stitching itself, as this could compromise the structural integrity of the dart.
5. **Grade Seam Allowances:** If the pattern instructions recommend it, you may also need to grade the seam allowances to further reduce bulk. Grading involves trimming one seam allowance slightly shorter than the other, typically by half, and then pressing the allowances in opposite directions to reduce bulk along the seam.
6. **Finish Seam Allowances:** Finally, finish the seam allowances as directed in the pattern. This could involve techniques like serging, zigzag stitching, or using a bias tape finish to prevent fraying and create a neat interior finish.
By truing dart bulk, you ensure that the finished garment has a smooth and professional appearance, with darts that lay flat and contribute to the overall shape and fit of the garment without adding unnecessary bulk or distortion.
Watch this quick and easy tutorial on creating trued dart bulk.
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Please note: at the time this video was made, Copper Creek Patterns was known as Do It Better Yourself, Club.
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