Mach' dir doch 'neu Bubikopf (Make Yourself a New Bobbed Head) Shimmy-fox aus „Die tanzende Prinzessin" (W.Kollo) -- Streich Orchester, Kalliope ca 1924/25 (Berlin, accoustic recording)

NOTE: In 1923-25 the Bobbed haircut (in German: Bubikopf, in French: à la garçonne, in Polish: na chłopczycę) became in Europe and America one of social and fashion madnesses of the Crazy Years 1920s. In America and in Europe after the First World War -- the short-cut hair bacame a part of social emancipation of the women, regarded as independent and self-sufficient individuals. Together with a knee-short skirt, listening to the jazz, smoking cigarettes and driving an automobile -- the Bobbed Head was a sign of the modern women's reaction against the over-fed, under-exercised monumental woman of the fin-de-siecle epoch. The "new" women began working outside the home, challenging women's traditional societal roles. Also their looks were supposed to challenge the traditional victorian gender roles, so became a kind of a compromise between masculine woman and effeminated man.
The first appearance of "la garçonne" image (or -- the "flapper", as such type was called in USA) came from the popular 1920 Frances Marion film, The Flapper, starring Olive Thomas. Thomas starred in a similar role in 1917, though it was not until The Flapper that the term was used. In her final movies, she was seen as the flapper image. Other actresses, such as Clara Bow, Louise Brooks, Colleen Moore and Joan Crawford would soon build their careers on the same image, achieving great popularity. Also writers, such as F. Scott Fitzgerald and illustrators such as Russell Patterson, John Held, Jr., Ethel Hays popularized the flapper look and lifestyle through their works, and flappers came to be seen as attractive, reckless, and independent. Flappers advocated voting and women's rights. With time, came the development of dance styles then considered shocking, such as the Charleston, the Shimmy and the Black Bottom . Alas, the onset of the Great Depression - with its main question "how to live", repeated now day and night by millions of people's mouths - put the careless and jazzy "flapper era" to an end.

свернуть