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Especially if you're new to the finer points of men's garments, the rise of trousers will likely not be your first consideration. The trouser rise is measured from waistband to waistband, through your crotch area.
Low-rise pants typically rest on or just above the hip bone, the medium rise pants usually go anywhere between the hip bones and the belly button, and a high-rise pair of pants or high waisted pair of pants, they're used interchangeably, reaches exactly at your natural waistline which is typically at the belly button.
So why does it matter what the length of a rise is, you might wonder. Well basically, the amount of fabric in the area between your crotch and your waistband has a huge impact on how the length of your legs versus your torso is perceived. A shorter rise makes it look like you have a longer torso and shorter legs. On the flip side, a high rise pair of pants makes it look like you have very long legs and a slightly shorter body.
The second reason your rise matters is when you wear a suit or a jacket with your pants, ideally, you never want the shirt to poke out underneath the buttoning point.
Also, if your shirt is invisible and you wear a longer tie, your tie pokes out from underneath your jacket and with the triangular shape pointing down, it accentuates your crotch even more which of course is bad.
If you follow us at the Gentleman's Gazette, you know we're big believers in classic men's style which often means that you avoid the extremes. In this case, you could argue that avoiding low-rise as well as high-rise pants will always keep you in solid middle ground.
Now one might assume that shorter gentlemen should always opt for low-rise pants but that is not the case. Basically when you wear a jacket and you look at it from a profile, the distance from the back of your collar to the end of your jacket should match the distance from the bottom of your jacket to the hem of your pants. Once you get that proportion right, you look at it in a mirror from the front, ideally without the jacket and you see where ideally you want that waistline to be.
If you're a little stronger in the waist area, a high-waisted pair of pants will help to cover up that extra body mass and nicely drape into your thighs. Meanwhile, low-rise pants would give you an overhang in the waist area, also known as a muffin top, of course, if you have a bigger belly, you have to take that into consideration and maybe let things out in the waist if you opt for high-rise pants.
In general, if you want to look contemporary, a tightly fitted pair of pants without pleats, a low rise, in a very snugly fitting blazer that is rather short is a look you wanna go for. However, if you look for a timeless style, maybe even something that is inspired by the Golden Age of menswear, then you should opt for a medium to high rise.
So what are good techniques or places to find trousers with the right rise for you?
If you truly want high rise pants, you likely will find them vintage, custom made or from small specialty retailers.
If you want to try a mid rise first, you could try classic brands such as Ralph Lauren maybe which often have a mid-rise pair of pants, they also often mention the rise on the detail section on their website. If you can't afford bespoke and you're not sure about vintage, you could also try this trick that Ethan Wong from Street x Sprezza is using, we interviewed him and he's a shorter gentleman who likes to wear high-rise pants, his trick is to buy pants that are two sizes larger than he is then he has the legs tapered taking the top of the waist in but it gives him a higher rise because larger sizes naturally will always have longer rises.
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