This video is about Boiler Safety Valve | Pressure Relief Valve Assembly after Dismantling | Marine PSV | RoamerRealm

In this video, we're looking into the Assembly of the Safety valve. All the parts have already been cleaned and inspected and to begin with, I've mounted the valve body onto the table vice in our workshop.

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The sandwiching gasket between the valve body and bonnet is already in place. The spindle or stem along with the disc should be able to go in freely and also there should not be any relative play between them. If you notice, I've applied some molykote on some of the surfaces for lubrication. I use this over Vaseline because Vaseline will just melt away due to heat when the valve is installed in place. Next comes the bottom spring carrier, followed by the spring and then the top spring carrier As mentioned earlier, the gasket in between is already in place. So, next comes the valve bonnet. Use the top part of the spindle valve stem for guiding. As you can see, it should go in easy without any trouble. Next, the nuts and bolts. So, as with every other piece of machinery, when putting nuts and bolts, first put all of them in place, tighten them by hand and then by spanner. Make sure that it is getting tightened uniformly, it's also important for the gasket to be compressed uniformly from all sides for a proper seal. Continue tightening while the threads are still loose but as it becomes tight, we have to do the final tightening in a cross pattern. This is true not just for this equipment, but for almost every equipment in the machinery space As you see here, I'm using the open end of a combination spanner. Ideally, you should use the ring end for the final tightening because it has a better grip and transfers the applied torque better. If you apply too much force using the open end of the spanner, it can get distorted, bent or even broken If you're new on the job and not so experienced, you can also use a Torque spanner to ensure that all the 4 nuts are tight to the same torque. Next is the spring tensioner or the spring adjuster. As the name suggests, this regulates the tension in the spring and there by, this step is also like "setting the safety valve". As we already know, this is not a new safety valve. Looking at the marks, colour and rust, it's also easy to identify the part which was exposed and which part of the spring tensioner was inside the valve bonnet. But these are just rough calculations. The right process is to measure the height using vernier calipers before dismantling and tighten the assembly to the same height if you've decided to reuse all the internal parts after inspection. Why? because then you'll only need to do some minor adjustments during the actual setting of the safety valve during function test. If you've used a new spring for example, still I would say tighten to the same height as before, maybe half or one turn loose (because the new spring will have a greater tension than an old one) and then go about setting it during the function test. I think this is approximately the position how it was before I started dismantling it. Let me confirm that with a vernier. So, I measured the height and found that I've tightened a little too much. So, I'll loosen it to readjust and then check again. Continue this till the desired height is reached. The next step is to then lock the tensioner in this place with the locking nut. To do this, use a spanner to hold the tensioner in place while at the same time, use another spanner to tight the locking nut in place. Don't go crazy while tightening, just do a hand tight and little bit more and it's enough to keep the locking nut in place. Just for my satisfaction, I measure the height one more time to confirm that it's in order.

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