drape fabric. ????


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The process of positioning and pinning the fabric on a dress form is called draping. Draping can be used to create the basic pattern or to design organically by playing with the fabric on the form. By working with the fabric directly on the form and seeing the effect of every single adjustment, draping has also helped me have a better understanding of drafting, which is making the pattern based on body measurements. Draping can be used to create the basic pattern or to design organically by playing with the fabric on the form which is a lot of fun.

Muslin, a woven cotton fabric that comes in a variety of weights, is normally used for draping. When choosing the muslin, it is the best to pick the muslin that has the similar weight to the fashion fabric. However, when it comes to working with very light fabrics like silk chiffon, silk charmeuse or silk organza, I personally get a cheaper version of those fabrics for the draping process to get the closest draping effect to the fashion fabric.

Depending on the symmetry and the design, I may drape only on one side of the dress form. It is very important to mark all the seams, pleats and any other design detail that needs to be transferred to the pattern, on the fabric before unpinning it. After transferring all the markings to the paper, I always check and true all the curved lines and make sure all the seams are matching. The last step is to add the seam allowances and voila! The pattern is ready for making the first prototype.

What Is Draping In Fashion?
Draping is a means by which fashion designers can three-dimensionally prototype their sketches on a mannequin or dress form. They do so by draping fabric over one of these forms and then pinning, pleating, and sewing where appropriate. Generally, you drape a design in a less expensive fabric than the one you plan to use for the final product. Draping grants you accessibility to the finer details of what makes a design work or not work pragmatically. Draping can help determine how breathable the clothes are or how well they might adapt to an economy of motion.

7 Steps to Draping a Dress

1. Acquire materials. Before you start draping, you’ll need all the requisite materials. Purchase plenty of drapable fabrics like chiffon or muslin to experiment with, as well as a dress form or mannequin sized to the body type for which you’re designing. Sewing materials, pins, rulers, and shears are also must-haves.

2. Begin a design sketch. You should iron out the basic design details for your dress before you even start touching the fabric. This sketch (a “croquis” in the fashion industry) is the phase where you should plot out the general look of the neckline or length of the dress as a whole. Draw your design and include basic instructions for yourself about how much material you think you might need for any given element.

3. Make measurements. Take a ruler or measuring tape to all the relevant sections of the dress form or mannequin. You should get an idea of the front and back bodice, waistline, neckline, and so on. The goal here is to give you a more concrete picture of how much fabric you’ll need, where you will need to pin it, and what areas it should cling to. Once you have these measurements, take some shears to your fabric and begin cutting in accordance with them.

4. Overlay the mannequin. Swathe the dress form with fabric, starting with a foundation piece, moving on to the front and back bodices, and so forth. Alternate this step with the following one as you add one piece of fabric after another. This is where you’ll begin pinning and fitting the dress to the form itself. Tailor the draped dress to fit as you sketched it out.

5. Pin where necessary. As you add each piece of drapery to your mannequin, resolve all fitting issues. If the dress should cling tightly to the bodice, pin it tight and add some indications of where the seam lines should go once you remove it. If you want it to be flowier, pin it looser. Repeat the process as you add each piece of fabric to the front and back of the dress.

6. Remove the dress. Once you finish making all the relevant notches, pleats, tucks, and so on, take the draped garments carefully off of the dress form. Lay the dress on a nearby table to store it until you’re ready to move on to sewing your prototype.

7. Sew the seams. Now that you’ve completed the draping process of positioning and pinning all your loose garments, you can start to use seam and grain lines as a sewing pattern guide. Once you turn your draped dress into a set of sewn fabrics, you'll have a finished garment prototype.

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