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H. Moser & Cie. raised hell before SIHH 2018 with a watch alternately known as the Moser “Frankenstein” and the Moser “Swiss Icons” Watch. The deliberate sendup of “iconic” Swiss watch models hit too close to home for the horological powers that be, and the piece unique was withdrawn from SIHH exhibition prior to the show’s open on January 15.
Nevertheless, H. Moser & Cie. brought new luxury watches that even a mad scientist could love. The headliner was the Moser Endeavour Flying Hours. It is a modern take on the “wandering hours” clock and starwheel / star wheel wristwatches. Rather than array the hour discs in an orbital fashion like watches from Arnold & Son, Audemars Piguet, and Urwerk, Moser mounted the hours in three turrets that rotate in synchronized pirouettes as the central minutes disc circulates the dial. 10 minutes before and 10 minutes after the hour, both the preceding and succeeding hours are highlighted in white. The dial is composed in “funky blue” with the signature fume gradient fade that reportedly finds a home on 80% of Moser’s watches sold. Inside, a Moser caliber C806 represents the fusion of know-how from Moser sister firm Hautlence (the flying hours module) and Moser’s Schaffhausen manufacture (the base 3-day automatic HMC200).
Moser also arrived with a highlight from SIHH 2017’s collection, the Heritage Moon. This 42mm white gold watch features a pocket watch-inspired case band first engraved by guilloche and then enameled with a translucent blue layer to create the effect known as “flinque enamel.” Inside the case, a grand feu enamel dial in blue serves as the frame for a moonphase display that is accurate to over 1,000 years. At center, a 24-hour indicator traces the day’s progress in order to enable more accurate setting of the moonphase. A Moser manufacture caliber HMC801 provides in excess of seven days of power reserve courtesy of twin mainspring barrels set in screw-fixed chatons. The movement features a solid gold escapement, a Breguet overcoil hairspring, a freesprung balance on a full balance bridge, and a complete assortment (balance, escapement, hairspring) that can be removed in order to facilitate easier servicing. The Moser Endeavour Moon is a limited series of 30 pieces.
The Moser Heritage line – one of four primary Moser model lines – expanded this year to include the Heritage Flying Tourbillon. 42mm in white gold with the same flinque enamel caseband as the exterior highlight and a grand feu enamel dial in white. The flying tourbillon is an automatic winder courtesy of caliber HMC 804 with a three-day power reserve.
If any doubt existed, the Moser Venturer and Moser Endeavour cases are distinctly different in person. If you want to know the difference, check out our comparison of Moser Venturer and Moser Endeavour cases in our exclusive video collector’s guide within this feature.
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