As the press kit for Dom Perignon 2006 stresses, the climate has continued to warm gradually since the 1990s. Global climate change. For the moment, the benefits of a warming trend for Champagne are "unanimously recognized," according to the press kit. "In addition to more regular yields, we have also seen an improvement in ripeness and vineyard conditions. Of this unprecedented series of five vintage champagnes, four were harvested at a stage of intense ripeness. Such frequency has not been reported in more than three hundred years of champagne harvests."

Indeed, the press kit vintage distinguishes "extreme ripeness" in the context of climate change as either “solemn” or “generous”. Where is 2006? For me, more in the “generous” category, as opposed to, say, 2004 or 2002. In this sense, 2006 reminds me a bit of the 2000 vintage. It is delicious, opulent, but perhaps lacks the verve and precision of 2004.

As for the growing season, 2006, although climatically irregular, was overall hot and dry. A July heatwave was followed by a cool and humid August. But then September was almost summery and dried out patches of botrytis while also maturing the grapes far more than usual. The harvest began on September 11 and lasted nearly four weeks.

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