(4 Mar 1999) Italian/Eng/Nat
Versace and Armani vie for fashion stars
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Fashion took second place to rock'n'roll for the latest collection from the funky VERSUS label unveiled in Milan last weekend, February 28.
Designer DONATELLA VERSACE introduced her fall-winter 1999-2000 collection by taking over a disco in Milan and sent her models out marching to a heavy beat. Once the clothes were out of the way it was time for straight ahead rock with a special concert from LENNY KRAVITZ.
But if the sound was wild and raunchy the clothes themselves were a little more homely. This is Versus in comfy mode with lots of felt skirts and sporty felt jumpers, The modern twist was evident in the asymmetrical hemlines.
The trousers, worn with little scarf skirts, were low waisted and wide.
But perhaps the biggest clue to the future for Donatella was the emphasis on the music rather than the look. The designer, who took control of the Versace empire after the murder of her brother in 1997, has always said that she would like to bring her creativity to the music world as well as the fashion one.
She certainly had plenty of musical support. In the front row were MAXWELL, SAFFRON from REPUBLICA, MARIAH CAREY and - LULU.
Few designers have the star pulling power of GIORGIO ARMANI. And he looks like maintaining his grip on the tinsel town glamour if the front row of his latest Milan show was anything to go by. Screen legends SOPHIA LOREN and CLAUDIA CARDINALE sat shoulder to shoulder with JEFF GOLDBLUM, while ASHLEY JUDD and JOAQUIN PHOENIX also put in an appearance.
But while the audience was strictly a-list, what of the actual clothes on the catwalk last night, March 3rd?
On display was the classic, slightly tapered trousers of Armani old. They were joined by gauze wool wraparound skirts and both were worn with tiny tops, jackets discreetly buttoned on the side, small bags and dainty slippers.
Some critics described the show as dull and complained that Armani has ignored modern influences like mixing sportswear and technical fabrics into his collection. These have been constant themes in many of this year's shows and even turned up in his younger, funkier, Emporio Armani show on Monday.
But grown up Armani woman presumably wants the old boy not to change. This was a show of simple silhouettes and slim fluid tailoring with nothing to disturb the clean lines.
A dab of life came in the form of shear gathered waist bands on sloppy skirts and ethnic quilting and shapes.
For evening wear Armani went for sheer black camisoles and peasant skirts intricatedly beaded with floral patterns.
Elsewhere the emphasis was more on the clothes. At the KRIZIA show on Wednesday night the main themes were neutral colours and earthy tones with rustic tweeds, rough mohair and natural cashmeres.
For evening wear there was shimmering cool satin sprayed with tinsel and sparkling diamante. A feature of many of the shows - the asymmetrical cut - was on show here again.
The strict palette of grey, black and white is shot through with bright yellow and uplifting red. This was a collection of contrasts with rustic wool marbled with threads of silk.
There was no such subtly over at BYBLOS where the younger end of the market was catered for with what could be described as 'slacker chic'.
Over at FERRAGAMO, Israeli singer NOA provided the vocal inspiration for a collection which was an almost all white procession of coats and long jackets.
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