Note, the functional structural integrity of the firing pin block of my CZ P-10 C does not change when the gun is assembled. Here is from Wikipedia:
Firing pin block
A firing pin block is a mechanical block used in semi-automatic firearms and some revolvers that, when at rest, obstructs forward travel of the firing pin, but is linked to the trigger mechanism and clears the obstruction to the pin just before the hammer or striker is released. This prevents the firing pin from striking a chambered cartridge unless the trigger is pulled, even if the hammer is released due to a faulty sear or the pin is dropped or struck by another object.
A firing pin block is a mechanical block used in semi-automatic firearms and some revolvers that, when at rest, obstructs forward travel of the firing pin, but is linked to the trigger mechanism and clears the obstruction to the pin just before the hammer or striker is released. This prevents the firing pin from striking a chambered cartridge unless the trigger is pulled, even if the hammer is released due to a faulty sear or the pin is dropped or struck by another object.
Here's a parallel to draw, my CZ P-10 C is basically a series 70 1911 because its firing pin block does not work, and the functional structural integrity of the firing pin block does not change when the gun is assembled. My firing pin block is still free to move inside the gun just like it is outside the gun, I stuck a pin inside the gun when it was fully assembled to try to move the firing pin block and it was free to move. Basically think of it like this, it's like a series 80 1911 with a non functioning firing pin block, essentially turning it into a series 70, not that a series 70 usually has problems, it's just that it's better to have a functioning firing pin block in modern guns. Almost all other pistols' firing pin blocks work when the whole guns are both assembled and disassembled, this P-10 C Firing Pin block does not either way and will ignite a primer by pulling the striker back and letting go or if the sear were to disengage. Essentially what is happening here is, my CZ P-10 C is relying solely on the sear engagement in order to keep the gun safe, not BOTH sear engagement in conjunction with a firing pin block like most other pistols. A series 70 1911 is the same way, it is relying solely on hammer-sear engagement to keep the gun safe, if a series 70 1911 were to take a drop on the back of the hammer, it could possibly slip forward from the sear and fire a round, with a series 80, if the same thing were to happen, the hammer would slip forward but the gun would not fire as its firing pin block is actually functional, this is why it is important to have a functioning firing pin block both when the gun is assembled and disassembled, and not rely solely on sear engagement. The CZ P-10 C to me, indeed does actually have a strong sear engagement that will usually not fail, however if it were to fail, keep in mind that the firing pin block that is designed for those rare instances, will not do its job. In conclusion, your CZ P-10 C will not likely give you any problems, but just remember that it is operating similar to a series 70 1911 regarding its firing pin block.
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