(11 Mar 1999) Italian/Eng/Nat
DESIGNERS TAKE MILLENNIUM WINTER SERIOUSLY

Italian fashion continued yesterday (4/3/99) with a colourful collection from DONNA TRUSSARDI. The veteran designer was inspired by the colours used in comic strips, which she mixed in with classic shades to create new blends. Moulded leather featured heavily, especially in her T-shirt dress, as well as the more sporty "function fur" jacket. Shearlings and furs in dusty greys, yellow and green tones popped up regularly with the seemingly obligatory zipper.

Coats, jackets and skirts made with the help of reinforced lycra ensure this collection is for the girl who's confident about her figure.
Plastic sheath dresses in contrasting tones kept things light and fun for daywear while sexy, feminine evening wear was still the order of the day.

Meanwhile at FENDI, journalists awaited "images of the future born from the culture of tradition", or so the blurb went. As usual, there was plenty of fur to be had for the non PC crowd, whether in the form of minimal jackets, bustiers, sugar and marshmallow minks or the multi-colour puzzle fur coat.

LAURA BIAGIOTTI envisioned her collection according to different female personas. An urban "little red riding hood" is clearly evident in her red dresses with knee-length coats and wide capes with big pouch pockets and extremely high collars.

Cashmere featured heavily, from high-necked pullover form, to gloves, hoods and tracksuits!. Biagiotti also translated her positive, energized feelings about the millennium into a kaleidoscope of colours.

The heavyweight of Italian fashion, GIANFRANCO FERRE, boosted his collection with the help of supermodel, NAOMI CAMPBELL and Spanish beauty, ESTHER CANADAS. Cashmere bustiers with leather lining were combined with wraparound skirts or jogging pants just visible under a floor-length coat. Easy to zip skin-tight leather jackets and superlight jersey gave the show a sensual feel while palm-warmers in lynx ensure Ferre wearers will be well prepared for the millennium winter. In fact, the designer was so serious about the possibility of a polar season that he designed a sleeve with a zip that transforms it into a glove and a thermal scarf that envelops like a stole.

JILL SANDER opted for a more high-tech approach to her collection, using such combinations as elastic rayon over silk fleece, gabardine coated with foam rubber and tweed with metallic threads. Cylindrical forms were covered with pin-tucking to define the silhouette, which remains distinctly feminine but liberated. Fabrics were designed to "go wavy " in rhythmic circles, with floating A-linear skirts in mono or bicolour. Blacks, whites and natural brown and brass tones were favoured along with green. Courageous and carefree is how Jill sees today's woman.

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