This extraordinarily rare hunting coat was made at the Mughal court in the first half of the 17th century. Richly embroidered in extremely fine chain stitch on a white satin ground, it features detailed images of wild cats, deer and rabbits, flowers, blossoming trees, birds, bugs and landscapes. Chain-stitch embroidery of this type is associated with the highly-skilled embroiderers of Gujarat, on the western coast of India, who were employed to create fine hangings and garments for the Mughal court, as well as for export to the West.

In this film, curator of South Asian textiles and dress Avalon Fotheringham takes an in-depth look at the cut and construction of the coat, both inside and out, explores the design and uncovers some secrets discovered during recent conservation work.

00:00 First glimpse of the extremely rare Mughal hunting coat dating to the 1610s
00:33 Who were the Mughals? Court wealth and riches.
01:11 First look at the incredible embroidered detail
01:54 Cosmopolitan influences on Mughal design
02:37 Mystery of the coat's origins
04:48 How was the coat constructed? Panels and pattern matching
05:21 A peek inside the lining reveals more secrets
06:53 The colours and dyes used in the coat
09:31 What tools were used for the embroidery?
11:32 Clever adaptations to the pattern to avoid repetition
14:27 Evidence of the maker's hand - little 'mistakes'

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