How to replace the harmonic balancer on a BMW 335d with the M57 diesel. A similar procedure may also apply to other models of vehicles with the same engine such as the X5 and 5 series of the same generation. A harmonic balancer is a common failure point on these engines, the rubber damper will fatigue with age and use, and this, in turn, will cause cracks and make the rubber and steel portions separate. Up until the failure point you may notice excessive engine vibrations and visual cracking in the rubber damper. If it fails, you will lose all belt accessory functions on your vehicle, the center portion will just spin, not allowing the belts the rotate. #bmw #bmw57 #teslong

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-T20 & T25
-5mm allen wrench
-standard screwdriver
-24mm socket
-ratchet
-punch
-E12 torx socket
-torque wrench

Procedure:
Remove the upper intake duct. To remove the other tube, use a long screwdriver and push in the two clip tabs on each side.

The engine cover will need to be disconnected but not fully removed. Remove the exposed 5mm allen head bolts on the top of the cover. Unclip the wire at the rear of the engine bay under the plastic cowl to access two of the fasteners.

Use a standard screwdriver to disconnect the throttle plate motor electrical connector. Using that standard screwdriver again, unclip the boost tube, pull it back slightly, push the clip back down to clear the one line and then fully remove.

Remove the one T25 fastener on the passenger side of the engine bay, this is for the electric cooling fan. You’ll need to disconnect the clips for the rubber hose. There is also a rubber hose to the far right that needs to be disconnected too, use a standard screwdriver to remove the clip. Remove the electrical plug on the driver’s side.

Going underneath the car, looking through the opening on the belly pan to the driver’s side, remove the one T25 fastener using an extension. Use a long standard screwdriver to disconnect the clip on the driver’s side. Push the tang towards the engine.

Bend the boost hose off to the side and remove the electric fan.

I installed a bypass switch for the solenoid so I could bump over the engine. Wrap a rag around the belt, then pulled it towards the front of the car as I turned the engine over. If you have a new belt, then cut off the old belt using side cutters.

For the serpentine belt use a 24mm socket, then rotate the tensioner pulley counterclockwise and remove the belt.

Use a punch about 1/4” in diameter to lock the flywheel in place. There is a hole below the starter going into the bell housing area. Once that hole in the flywheel is lined up, then stick in a punch to hold everything in place.

Using an E12 torx socket, remove the four harmonic balancer bolts. Then remove the harmonic balancer.

New bolts are required for the harmonic balancer. Snug them up first in a criss-cross pattern so ensure it’s seated and fully in place. With the engine still locked in place, the torque specifications for these bolts are 30 ft lbs or 40 nm, plus 120 degrees. Again torque these in a criss-cross pattern, a mirror may be needed for this.

Remove the punch that locks the flywheel in place, it’s best to remove this sooner than later. Install the serpentine belt, route it on the rigged pulleys first, and try to install it on the smooth pulley last when the tensioner is pulled back.

There is a special tool to install the stretch belt, however this can be done without it. Again I have the solenoid bypass switch installed, the belt is fully routed around the AC pulley. Then routed as far as possible around the crank pulley, use a screwdriver or something similar instead to hold the belt in place. Then turn the engine over.

Install the other parts in reverse of removal.

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