(15 Feb 1998) Span/Eng/Nat

Increasing numbers of tourists are turning off the beaten track and heading for a volcanic island in the heart of Nicaragua's greatest lake.

Ometepe island lies 17 kilometres from shore in the heart of Lake Nicaragua, one of the world's largest, south of the capital Managua.

Locals have embraced the budding tourist boom but still greater changes are on the way if plans to build a new trans Central American canal go ahead.

The volcanic peaks of Concepcion and Maderas tower over Ometepe Island in the middle of Lake Nicaragua.

Both are major tourist attractions in their own right on an island which is fast becoming an essential destination for travellers with a sense of adventure.

The local ferry carries several thousand across the 17 kilometre stretch of lake to Ometepe's main port each year.

It is one place both independent backpackers and holiday groups do not want to miss.

Their arrival marks a growing confidence in Nicaragua's gradual return to peace after ten years of civil war following the overthrow of dictator Anastasio Somoza in 1979.

Often tourism can overwhelm a newly discovered destination but Ometepe, as yet, remains blissfully unaffected.

Most of the 35-thousand people here live off the land or fish the lake.

SOUNDBITE: (Spanish)
"We can add a very special characteristic of the island to that of the water, the beautiful countryside and volcano and that is the idiosyncrasy of its inhabitants, their way of life, their way of showing affection, their good nature."
SUPER CAPTION: Douglas Cespedes, hotel owner

The island is home to a wide range of wildlife.

Its landscape is dramatic with active volcanic peaks rising as high as 16-hundred meters above sea level.

Or there is the coastline, the four hundred islands and the freshwater beaches where visitors can unwind.

SOUNDBITE: (English)
"The boat ride is an experience coming over here. That's probably the best part of the trip - the boat ride over. It takes about an hour. We enjoyed it, going up to the volcano, to the pool, it was very enjoyable. We look forward to coming back again another year."
SUPER CAPTION: William M Purcell, Vietnam war veteran from Massachusetts

The island was originally home to indian groups such as the Manges, Chorotegas, Chibchas and Taiwanacos who withdrew to the volcanic foothills during the Spanish Conquest.

Archaeological remains are mainly found in these areas and many still lie scattered about the countryside.

The prospect of greater tourists in the years ahead puts pressure on the island to protect a local heritage even the islanders do not always appreciate.

The stone seen here is used for scrubbing clothes.

SOUNDBITE: (Spanish)
"And this was used for human sacrifices. This little square is a symbol of sun worshipping rites. The god of Ometepe was, for them and is for us, a sacred place. And what we are trying to do is to find out how we can protect our roots, protect our origins and something of our identity and make them known to the world."
SUPER CAPTION: Professor Manuel Hamilton, historian

Unemployment and poverty in Nicaragua runs high and tourism has become a valuable peacetime commodity.

It remains to be seen what the arrival of tourism will do to Ometepe.

But the more immediate threat to this rural calm is likely to be the possible construction of a trans-Nicaraguan canal.

The project remains in the early phase of talks but there is little doubt the canal would run cut through Lake Nicaragua.

The simple lifestyle these islanders lead may soon find its days are numbered.

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