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Exploring the Function and Fashion of Shoe Lasts
Considered the "heart of the shoe," the shoe last serves as the foundational element of every shoe design. It holds a central position throughout the entire shoemaking process, as shoemakers begin their craft by working with the last and building the shoe around it.
The Importance of the Shoe Last
The last's shape not only determines the fit, performance, ergonomics, and style of a shoe, but also its suitability for specific activities like basketball, hiking, or marathon running. Even the most aesthetically pleasing shoe design falls short if the last is not chosen appropriately for the intended function of the shoe.
Understanding the Shoe Last
Traditionally, a last is created in the shape of a foot and can be made from molded plastic, carved wood, cast aluminum, or 3D printed plastic. The term "last" finds its roots in the old English word "laest," meaning "footprint." Remarkably, shoe lasts have been in use since the Greek and Roman civilizations dating back to 400 BCE.
Throughout history, the last has played a crucial role in determining the shape and fit of shoes. It is involved in every stage of the shoemaking process, setting the size, silhouette, and overall outline of the shoe. From the design phase to the development process and production assembly line, the last remains central to the entire shoe production journey.
The Role of the Shoe Last in the Design Phase
During the design phase, shoe designers often sketch their new creations directly onto the surface of a last or use the 2D silhouette of the last as a guide when drawing on paper. Following the outline shape of the last's bottom is essential for accurately designing the outsole.
It's worth noting that a modern shoe last is not an exact replica of the human foot. Instead, it represents a generalized form, considering the natural articulation and volumetric changes that occur as the foot moves and flexes. Well-crafted running or walking shoes, for instance, are designed with careful consideration of the last. Prominent shoe brands seek the expertise of shoemakers, podiatrists, and kinesiologists to develop biomechanically ideal last shapes.
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