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Greeting and welcome to the world of Officine Panerai. Today, I'll be your guide to the Panerai Luminor 1950 8 Days GMT Oro Rosso. PAM 576. This 44 mm red gold timepiece is best described by starting from the outside and working our way in.
This is an upscale and versatile Panerai reference with considerably more elegance than its historical antecedents, but all of their durability and utility. Now the story of this watch starts with a beautiful, high polish, Panerai pin buckle, with inset engraved Panerai marquee. It continues with an upscale and very substantial contrasting stitch, dark brown, alligator leather strap. Now the contrasting stitch, is a beautiful match to the brown of the strap, the gold of the case, and the brown of the dial. And on its underside, it features a rich and supple calfskin for suppless against the skin.
Now the watch features a Panerai manufactured caliber P.2002, executed entirely in-house at Panerai's, Neuchâtel, Switzerland manufacturer. The movement fills the entirety of the case back and this is significant, as Panerai constructs its cases, its styles and its movements, each one, specifically to match the other as a true manufacturer. This movement fills the entirety of the case back of its containment vessel.
You'll also note historic tributes in the form of a three-quarter style bridge. Though partitioned for ease of service, it features the mass and the esthetic of the mid-century pocket watch calibers that powered Panerai combat watches of the Italian Navy's amphibious core. However, modern technology is at play here in the form of three main spring barrels, endowing the watch with eight days of power reserve manually-wound and a dual anchored balance bridge. A full bridge with a free sprung index. Those two features, combined with a 4 Hertz modern beat rate, enable the watch to shake off most vibration and shock-induced time deviations that would prey on conventional and less durable timepiece architectures.
Now, it's also important to note that this movement features a second time zone, and immense complexity by virtue of 21 pivot jewels and 247 parts. Now, it's three main spring barrels and advanced balance architecture, hide two highly convenient refinements. The first, being a zero reset and stop seconds function. When you pull the crown to its outermost position, you halt the balance, and you halt the advance the seconds hand, but you also, index it to 12 on the second subdial, at 9:00. Now, you can move the minute hand to the next nearest minute, and comparing the watch to a reference time such as an atomic clock, wait for the reference to catch up. Then lower the crown, resume the beat of the balance. Now you've synchronized your watch precisely to your reference time.
However, there is another feature that can be used, both for time zone jumpers and for setting the local time independent of your second time zone. This is an intermediate position between winding and outermost, where you can advance the hour hand. And you'll notice how the hour hand, the local time, drives the date disc at 3. Now of course, this is how you set your watch independently of the second time zone for which there is a clear a.m/p.m distinction. It's the small triangular index on the sub dial at 9. The seconds hand is superimposed over it.
And of course, to preserve the symmetry of the dial, the sub dial counterbalanced by the date, the marquee is counterbalanced by an eight day linear power reserve that moves from left to right as you wind the watch, up to its maximum rated power reserve of eight days.
Now, the case, as well as the hands and the pin buckle, feature panorized, unique 5Npt red gold in the sensuous 1950's style case. It's important to note, this is not pink gold. This is not rose gold. It is Oro Rosso, and that by virtue of the 5N combination of gold and copper, that gives it its richness. But Panerai goes one step further with its 5Npt alloy. It creates a rose gold that turns red, and then stays that way. That's the benefit of platinum. It prevents the watch from oxidizing in the form of chemicals, in the form of cosmetics, in the form of atmospheric oxygen, so that it maintains, that vivid, red, richness, long-term.
Now, of course it is still a Panerai Luminor, so it features the iconic cushion case, straight looks and device protecting the crown. The crescent shaped crown guard provides all aspect coverage, far superior to a conventional shouldered crown guard. But it's also a modern industrial design icon, and just as when it was first invented in the 1950's, today, it maintains that all aspect protection, plus the ease of use. Far easy to unlock than a tight screwed down crown.
