Molding and casting props with silicone rubber. Learn mold making techniques and how to make a human skull mold part 4 Pouring the two part silicone halves. How to make a matrix, case, blanket, or also known as a mother mold. In this video I get the case mold ready for pouring the silicone rubber around the DIY skull. There are several places to purchase fake or realistic looking skulls and often times the more realistic and detailed they are the more they cost. This can get expensive if your needing 30 or more skulls for a catacomb scene, film shoot or a Halloween yard or home haunt. A well built skull mold is one way to help keep the over all cost of your project down in the long run. Although some of the materials to get started will have some cost attached to it like silicone rubber, clay, resins, plaster, or fiberglass for instance, it should pay off in the end. So if your a do it yourself type of a person with a little time and patience than this video may help you get some ideas for your future skull mold making project. This video is the fourth in a series of videos that will take you through all the steps we took to make the style mold we use all the time to make our Halloween skull props. We place these skulls all throughout our home and yard haunt and inside our walk through maze and crypt mausoleums. We created a whole catacomb wall behind our foam crypt coffin prop we had last year. We cast them with hard plaster and drilled holes and glued 3/8" bolts into the backs to make mounting to the wall easier. There are so many skulls out there on the market. If you choose not to sculpt one you should be able to find one you like and with lots of detail.
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First I need to drill a 1" hole to pour the silicone in from the bottom side. To do this easier I step up in bit sizes
You can also use a 1" spade or paddle bit
Apply a thin coat of petroleum jelly and ease release spray
Using dry rice and an extra skull is just a fast way for me to measure how much rubber I need to mix
Don't forget to tape or plug the hole
The heat over the petroleum jelly helps reduce the brush stroke marks that may dry in the silicone
Hot glue will help temporarily block the silicone from leaking out the sides
This product mixes 50/50 and has a pot life of 50 minutes and cures in about 4 hours
It's better to mix without pulling the stir stick out of the silicone and pour slow to help prevent air bubbles
Now I'm finding the placement for holes that will serve as either the fill or the breath locations
On the mold prior to this I placed the hole pointing toward the back of the skull but never use it. I just plug the hole and pour through the top
I wanted the ability to plug the holes with a wine cork and 1/2" wood dowel so I chose PVC that would accommodate that
To continue the skull mold making videos click these links below
Making A Skull Mold: Part 1
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Making A Skull Mold: Part 2
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Making A Skull Mold: Part 3
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Making A Skull Mold: Part 5
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How To Make A Fiberglass & Silicone Mold: Human Skull Prop Castings
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