How to remove or replace a BMW FRM, also known as a footwell module in a 3 series for the models e90, e91, e92, and e93. Unfortunately my module bricked up during a scan when the battery died. Lessoned learned on my part and hopefully this can be a warning for others when working on this generation of 3 series, make sure you have a trickle charger on your battery when running scans for longer periods. A bricked or faulty FRM will cause issues such as no gauge lights, only the low beams will work, no fog lights, no license plate lights, no interior lights, keyless entry not locking the doors, non-functioning windows, no power mirrors, not being able to erase the check engine light, and footwell module fault on an OBD2 reader. #FOXWELL #DEOXIT #BMW #BMWE90 #BMW335d

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-10mm socket with 6" extension and 3/8" ratchet
-nylon trim tool
-interlocking pliers
-Deoxit D100L terminal cleaner/protectant
-OBD2 scanner
-phillips screwdriver
-T20 torx driver

Procedure:
Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery.

Remove the three t20 torx screws under the dashboard.

Then pull the panel down and straight back. You will need to disconnect the electrical plug on the left, the speaker, and then the light. There is a small component on the left side of the panel towards the front. I was having trouble with this connection, and instead of risking the chance of damaging it, I simply pulled back the tabs and disconnected it from the plastic panel instead.

Then the plastic trim panel can be fully removed.

Using a nylon, trim tool, pry up the trim panel along the door opening.

There are four clips underneath. These clips may stay in place and I will show you how to remove them before installing this panel back in place.

As you can see behind the hood release latch, there will be a Phillips screw. The hood release lever also needs to be removed, this is also held in with a Phillips screw

Remove these two screws, the hood release lever simply slides onto a rotational knob.
After that is pulling off the panel, the electrical plug for the trunk release will need to be disconnected.

For the football module, there will be two 10mm plastic nuts, holding this in place. The nut on the top side will need the wires to be pushed up.

There are white levers on each of the connectors, there are three in total. There is a small tab that needs to be pushed in, the lever can be pulled back, and the plug will be removed from its location on the module.

Here’s a quick view of the module once it has been removed, you can see the two bolt locations at the top and bottom slots.

Installation is in reverse of removal. You will need to tuck the module in on the top side and then push it back into place on the bottom side. The electrical connectors will need to be plugged in before having the module fully seated. Make sure those white levers are out and push the connector into place and the lever will need to be retracted back into place at the same time.

As for the plastic nuts, start the top one first and then start the bottom one.

I have reconnected the battery to ensure everything is working as it should before installing the rest of the trim panels.

As for removing those plastic clips, use interlocking players, wiggle the clip back and forth and pull straight up at the same time.

Reinstall that sidekick panel. Plug in the trunk switch. The door gasket will need to be pulled back so it’s slipped under it. Slide the panel into the one clip and then snap it back into place on the other one closer to the footrest.

Install the lower screw behind the hood lever. Install the hood release lever, and then threaded the other screw.

After that is reconnecting, all those electrical connections on that top trim panel. Ensure they are all properly snapped into place. If one of the fiber, optic connections are not fully seated, you will lose some radio function.

Push the panel back into place. Then reinstall the screws. Reinstall those clips back onto the trim panel, they simply slide into place. Then snap the panel back into place.

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