The Candi Gunung Kawi ancient temple complex is located at the bottom of a lush river valley running through the small town of Tampaksiring, just northeast of Ubud. This stunningly unique archeological site, which includes a collection of ancient 'Candi' or shrine reliefs carved directly into the face of a rock cliff, is also an important sacred place for the Balinese people.

Gunung Kawi was also on the itinerary of the 44th President of the United States, Barack Obama, when he and his family visited Bali in late June 2017.

The main complex, which overlooks the sacred Pakerisan River, which also flows by the Tirta Empul sacred Water Temple a kilometer up north, consists of ten shrines - memorials cut out of the rock cliff face in the shape of actual buildings. They are housed in 8m-high sheltered niches cut into the sheer cliff face. They are inspired by the free-standing ancient temples or Candis of East Java, which have very similar architectural forms and decorations. There are four shrines on the west side and five on the east side of the river, with another to the south across the valley. Evidence points to the possibility that these Candis were formerly shielded by two enormous rock-hewn cloisters.

Candis are shaped like small buildings with massive three-tiered roofs adorned with nine stylized lingam-yoni fertility symbols. Each candi appears to be a relief-carved doorway that leads nowhere. Instead, there is a small chamber beneath the candi, accessed from the front by a sloping shaft, in which a stone plaque (peripih) with nine holes containing symbolic offerings of food and metal objects representing the necessities of earthly existence was placed.

The shrines, where Buddhist monks used to sit and meditate, are complemented with little stone caves that are actually utilized for meditation. It is true that Balinese history demonstrates how the two religions coexisted and occasionally blended harmoniously. The operational temple courtyard known as Pura Gunung Kawi is located across the river and next to the first rock shrine complex. The inside is typical of any Balinese temple courtyard, with several shrines encircling the main grand pavilion, or "bale," of the temple.

Be ready to descend hundreds of steps before you arrive at the temple complex if you're traveling to it from the main Tampaksiring highway. All visitors must be properly dressed, wearing a sarong with a sash around their waist, as is the case with any other temple visit in Bali, especially to temples considered sacred. Women who are on their periods are also not allowed entry into the Gunung Kawi Temple complex. The entrance facility before the stairs down to the valley is where you can borrow the sash and sarong. Every year around the time of the "piodalan" temple anniversary, the temple is exquisitely decorated to coincide with the Balinese calendar's Purnama Katiga, or "third full moon," providing a festive and unique backdrop for pictures.

The structure, which is devoted to former Balinese monarchs, exudes a magical aura reminiscent of long-forgotten traditions and myths about legendary Balinese rulers. Legend has it that KeboIwa, a great military leader in the early Balinese Kingdom who possessed magical abilities, used his powerful fingernails to cut the entire collection of memorials out of the rock face in one long, long night.

In honor of his father, the legendary Balinese king Udayana, and the Warmadewa Dynasty, King Anak Wungsu is thought to have built the candis of Gunung Kawi in the 11th century (1080 AD). The monuments on the eastern side, according to history, are in honor of King Udayana, Queen Mahendradatta, and their sons Airlangga, AnakWungsu, and Marakata. Eastern Java was dominated by Airlangga when AnakWungsu ruled Bali. In the past, Airlangga was regarded as the legendary ruler of the Singosari kingdom, the remains of which can still be seen close to Surabaya.

This hypothesis holds that the four statues on the western side are in honor of Anak Wungsu's principal concubines. According to a different idea, Anak Wungsu, his wives, and concubines are the sole beneficiaries of the complex, whereas a royal minister is the sole beneficiary of the remote 10thcandi.

It is simple to get to the temple complex because it is only a few hundred meters east of the main Jalan Raya Tampaksiring street. From there, you can continue walking down the sidewalk to find small local warungs and art galleries. A further 300 stairs will bring you to the river, where beautiful paddy terraces and breathtakingly green valleys will whisk you away from modernity. You enter the complex by passing through a stone archway where the stairs end. Each of the small pillars there holds an earthen vase with holy water, which you should sprinkle on yourself before entering.

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