Blessed with cobblestoned streets, a crumbling, faded grandeur, an amazing weekly street market, and many good places to eat and drink, San Telmo is a Buenos Aires barrio that simply cannot be missed.

San Telmo is the barrio that lies six blocks from Plaza de Mayo, bounded to the north and south by the Microcentro and La Boca, and to the east and west by Puerto Madero and Avenida 9 de Julio. It’s the oldest barrio in Buenos Aires. It dates back to the 17th century, when it was first home to dockworkers and brick-makers, and later became an industrial area.

San Telmo was a poor area, and one attempt to address this was the establishment of the Parish of San Pedro González Telmo in the area in 1806. ‘San Telmo’ is the patron saint of seafarers, and he is of course the namesake of the barrio today.

This ended quickly after a cholera epidemic in 1871 that claimed over 10,000 lives caused many people living in San Telmo to flee from the area and head northwest to Barrio Norte. Due to this, San Telmo became intensely multicultural, as a wave of European immigrants made it their home. During the middle of the 20th century, San Telmo started attracting artists, taking on a bohemian vibe and establishing the area as a hotspot for tango.

Today San Telmo reflects on all of this history while continuing to move forward. It’s a part tourist trap, part Bohemian enclave, part rough-and-tumble inner-city suburb, and part tango center all of which makes it a pretty interesting place to stay, live, or even just visit.

In order to properly enjoy San Telmo, you really need to go there on a Sunday. That’s when the huge antiques-market-cum-street-market-cum-street-party turns Calle Defensa into the funnest place in town. There are hundreds of stalls, lots of street performers, and more opportunities to buy souvenir mate cups than anyone could possibly need!

If you can’t make it to San Telmo on a Sunday you should of course still go. The best place for a stroll is along Calle Defensa between Avenidas San Juan and Independencia, stopping to peer in the window or go into some of the many antique shops that line the street. Plaza Dorrego has professional tango dancers strutting their stuff most of the time and is a nice place to stop for a drink anyway.

If you want to see tango in San Telmo but would prefer to see a show, go to El Viejo Almacén on the corner of Calles Independencia and Balcarce, but check their website for times first.

San Telmo has it all: history; beauty; ugliness; life; decay; great food; tango, and antique shops. It’s not as polished as Palermo, or as plush as Recoleta, but for many tourists and ex-pats, it’s their favorite barrio of all.

Top Tourist Attractions in SAN TELMO: Visit the Sunday Feria, Bar Plaza Dorrego Feria de San Telmo, Go antique shopping at Gil Antigüedades, Stroll through Parque Lezama, Learn about Argentina’s past at Museo Histórico Nacional, Catch a tango show at El Viejo Almacén, Eat steak at La Brigada, Explore the tunnels of El Zanjón de Granados,
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