As we learn the process of all things 3d printing, we move into bed leveling. Here is the how to manually level bed Ender 3 Pro video. The process is fairly precise but also has a feel it out process.
Buy through my Amazon Affiliate Link: [ Ссылка ]
I did start by using the files that can be found for free from Chepclub.com. The issue I had was that I chose the wrong file for doing the bed leveling step. The good part here is being able to learn more about the manual processes of the printer. This allowed me to see the depth of movement and get a better understanding of the Ender 3 operation.
Once the printer failed to allow me to freely have the nozzle move from corner to corner, and instead just printing filament, I needed to do a manual process. I learned this by just clicking around into the menu.
Once you click the dial it allows you into the Menu. Then you select Move and lower the printer all the way down to 0 on the Z axis. This allows the Z axis to be as close to the bed as possible. You could turn the dial so it stops just shy of the bed for safety. I opted for full speed ahead given I already lost time in using the wrong file name.
In terms of that file, I chose the one that said 32 Bit Bed Level _Print (or similar). I just need the file that was above that which did not include the word print. The point of that file is to print filament after doing the bed leveling step. This is why learning on the fly can be stressful, but also fun as you learn different ways to make it work.
Back to lowering the bed. Once the z axis is all the way down and you are sure the nozzle won't press into your bed, we can start leveling. I am hoping you got some grasp of the printer design during assembly. That is when you would've noticed the wheels under the bed. These are what allow for the leveling adjustments.
You will usually start with the front left corner and work clockwise. You can raise the bed by turning the screw clockwise. Counterclockwise lowers the bed. It did take a decent bit of turning to get the bed raised up enough.
The enough part is determined by what will be your "gapper". I used a thick piece of art paper. Card stock will work well, and others use printer paper but that is too thin for me. As you raise the bed (turn dial clockwise to do so) you will move the piece of paper between the nozzle and the bed. The paper should simply lay flat on the bed while you move it.
The bed should feel close enough to where you can tell it is "writing" on the paper. If it fully stops you from moving the paper it is too close. Be careful not to allow your hand or part of your arm to rest on the linear rail (for the y axis). I noticed in the back right corner I did this but realized while the step occurred.
NOTE: You could raise the Z axis using the Move approach by raising it up a few mm in case you feel it may drag on the magnetic mat on the bed. I didn't do this but it could be done depending on how close your bed is to the nozzle right after setup. I had to move each corner up about 1/4" as I went along each corner.
Alright so we are in the front left corner of the bed. Then from here I just went into the Menu by clicking the dial and then choosing Move. I then turned the dial all the way clockwise when choosing the Y axis. This will move the bed to the back left corner. The process is repeated here with the "writing" approach for the paper between nozzle and bed.
Then you go into the Menu and click Move and move the X axis all the way by turning the dial clockwise. This should move the bed to the far right rear corner. Here we repeat the "writing" steps.
What I noticed in this corner was that due to the bed sitting low, I actually had to go to the front right corner to raise that side of the bed up (this being the final corner). When making something level, as you raise up one side or corner, the other side may also raise some. The concept is a little outside of the scope of this video, but you may need to do so as I did.
Once I got the front corner elevated a bit, I was able to successfully create a little drag aka "writing". I then needed to go to the final corner so I had to go into the Menu by clicking the dial and then clicking Move. This is where you are going to reverse course in a sense. The Y axis needs to be moved back to 0 by turning counterclockwise. This moves the bed so you can be in the front right corner.
Here we repeat course so that we can level the bed and find the "writing" feel we are after. Then we would ideally repeat the four corners once more to make sure they all didn't rise too much. You need to go into the Menu and Move the X axis back to 0 here to restart.
The bed is built on a four corner frame so when one corner gets pulled that whole side can get pulled which causes the height issue (thus needing to re-check). It will make sense as you go through the process.
#LiftingDad
[ Ссылка ]
--
[ Ссылка ]
