In this brief video I show how to build an easy and dead accurate jig that allows you to sharpen circular carbide tipped saw blades. 10" and 12" blades in particular as that is what most table and mitre saws use. Please keep in mind I am a total hack when it comes to video production. However I am presenting solid ideas that I am showing the well used results of. Not just an idea that this is the first attempt at. I have a similar video with the same title almost but its pretty shaky to watch. This one is better and easier to watch. ... a couple points I didn't mention: the bronze key won't chip the carbide teeth. If you dont have access to 5/8 cold rolled bar for your pivot, use wood dowel, but drill a longitudinal hole through it and counter sink the hole Then with a narrow kerf saw (like a pull saw) make two opposing (x) cuts down the centre line of the dowel. That way when you tighten the hold down screw the dowl expands a bit and that way you can adjust the amount of friction and fit to the blade. I have always simply ground the outside top of my teeth at 90 degrees ( when the grinder is set at 90 degrees to what is shown in the video) This works just fine I have found. The blade leave a flat bottomed kerf then just like a dado blade. However the whole reason I made this on a 3 part platform is that you can easily shim the middle (white piece) up to match the bevel angle of the tooth. Just remember to skip a tooth or even two when sharpening triple chip blades etc, then flip the blade over to grind the other side. In the few years and 30 odd blades I have sharpened on this particular jig, I haven't found the pressing need to actually do this though. You may have differing needs though. Also, carbide dust isnt super great to be inhaling so hold your breath for the 10 minutes its going to take to sharpen the blade. Cheers.

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