100-tinjak kilometara po Nevesinjskom polju, od tvrđave Vjenčac u gradu, do skretanja Čanjama na makadamski put prema Ovčijem brodu. Nakon posjete tom fantastičnom kamenom mostu na presahloj Zalomki, idem dalje za Kifino selo, pa Kalufe, najveću nekropolu stećaka u bivšoj Jugoslaviji. Odatle potjeran nevremenom idem nazad na jug polja i penjem se na Straževicu da vidim istoimenu gradinu.
Nikada ranije nisam bio u tom dijelu visoke Hercegovine. Prvo što me je iznenadilo je pad temperature, sa 36C u Mostaru, na 26C u Nevesinju. Fin gradić, vidi se da se obnavlja u zadnjim godinama, vjerovatno mnogo sporije nego zaslužuje. Valovito Nevesinjsko polje na prosječnoj visini od 860mnv, sa sjeverozapada okruženo Veležom, sa sjevera Morinama (našim Tibetom), a na jugu visi iznad Dabarskog polja. Nova destinacija za sve ljubitelje outdoor aktivnosti, a raj za bicikliste.
Uzeo sam pristojan "stan na dan", naveče izašao do grada i bio iznenađen da niko ne nudi domaća vina - kažu "to pitaj kod onih dolje u Hercegovini, ođe to niko ne traži".
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Around 100 kilometers through Nevesinjsko Polje, from the Vjenčac fortress in the town, to the turnoff at Čanje for the gravel road towards Ovčiji Brod. After visiting that fantastic stone bridge over the dried-up Zalomka, I continue to Kifino Selo, then to Kalufi, the largest stećak necropolis in the former Yugoslavia. Driven by a storm from there, I head back south across the field and climb Straževica to see the eponymous hillfort.
I had never been to that part of high Herzegovina before. The first thing that surprised me was the drop in temperature, from 36°C in Mostar to 26°C in Nevesinje. A fine little town, it is clear that it has been undergoing renewal in recent years, probably much slower than it deserves. The undulating Nevesinjsko Polje, at an average altitude of 860 meters above sea level, is surrounded by Velež to the northwest, Morine (our Tibet) to the north, and hangs above Dabarsko Polje to the south. A new destination for all outdoor activity enthusiasts, and a paradise for cyclists.
I rented a decent "apartment for a day," went out to the town in the evening, and was surprised that no one offered local wines – they said, "ask those down in Herzegovina, no one here asks for that.
