If you have a problem with starting your car it could be that you have way too many items on your key ring.

This is exactly what happened to my daughter’s crossfire. This is her key ring and it killed her ignition switch.

Excessive wear on your ignition switch could be caused from an extra heavy key ring. Ignition switches are made of metal and plastic. Both metal and plastic wears out, but plastic wears quicker. Think about it.
A new stitch has no wiggle room when you jiggle the key but an old switch has massive amounts of wiggle. That means contacts are no longer making contact, meaning the car will not start. Many switches activate the safety circuits and fuel pump prior to starting the engine.
If safety circuits are not setup for starting, the car will not start.

What are additional symptoms?
- Starting issues
- Electrical problem with accessories, they don’t come on when you turn the key.
- The engine may stall while driving, because the keys are jingling moving the ignition switch. In-turn shutting off the fuel pump.

Most ignition switches have four positions, four taskings’ and it is usually is mounted on the steering column. The first task is to lock or unlock the steering column and transmission on automatic transmission vehicles. Basically, this is what locks your steering wheel and shifter keeping honest people honest.
- No, oil pressure is not at rated value and oil pressure safety system has been temporarily removed from the starting system.
- No, the alternator is not currently charging the battery.
- No, the alternator is not producing electrical power for the car to run.
- No, the exhaust electronic O2 system is not currently checking exhaust through the muffler.
- No, the starter has no engaged the flywheel and is not turning.
- No, the coolant pump is pumping
- Yes, engine timing is correct

The second task is to activate the accessory electrical system.
This is the radio and lights click. If your dash lights up, your starting problems may lie elsewhere, but if your lights don’t come on it could be your ignition switch or battery.

The fourth task or click starts the car. Remember, many switches must activate or deactivate the safety circuits and fuel pump prior to starting the engine. Meaning the oil pressure switch is removed from the safety circuit allowing the car to start. If the oil sensor were allowed to stay in the circuit, the car would never start because oil pressure would not be at 18 PSI because the oil pump is not yet pumping oil. The battery is sending electrical power to the starter, and not the alternator. Starter has to engage the flywheel and rotate to turn the engine. The gearshift position sensor is checked. This sensor checks to see if car in park or neutral.
- No, oil pressure is not at rated value and oil pressure safety system has been temporarily removed from the starting system.
- No, the alternator is not currently charging the battery.
- No, the alternator is not producing electrical power for the car to run.
- No, the exhaust electronic O2 system is not currently checking exhaust through the muffler. Check in 30 seconds.
- Yes, the starter has engaged the flywheel and is turning.
- Yes the coolant pump is pumping
- Yes engine timing is correct

Now for the third click. The third task or click is the run position. After everything is operational, you release the key and it springs back into the engine run position. That is, once the car starts and the safety system has completed it automatic checks, meaning all dash lights go turn off.
- Yes oil pressure is at rated value, usually 18 PSI.
- Yes the starter has disengaged the flywheel
- Yes the alternator is producing electrical power for the car to run
- Yes the alternator is charging the battery
- Yes the coolant pump is pumping
- Yes engine timing is correct
- Yes the exhaust system is properly porting exhaust through the muffler.

And based on your car or truck, all of this happens each time you try to start your car or truck.

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