0:00-0:36 Introduction
0:37-6:14 Surinder Halwai
6:15-15:03 Sohan Di Hatti
15:04-17:46 Walk Through The Vegetable Market
17:47-26:18 Pehalwan Kulcha Shop
26:19-35:05 Kanha Sweets


In this 1st episode of the 5 parts Amritsar Food Tour series we are taking you on a mouth watering breakfast tour across the holy city of Amritsar. To guide us on this journey we have with us our host Deepak Kumar who is a local and the founder of Amritsar Walking Tours. Dotted with innumerable small and big eateries, this city definitely is a food destination where gluttony is celebrated.

We started the chilly winter day with a visit to Surinder Halwai at Nimak Mandi. This small cart was swarmed with locals waiting for their order of piping hot g. gur ka halwa which is essentially a luscious ghee loaded puddi g made of semolina and jaggery. This winter special sweet makes for a hearty breakfast during this season. The insane amount of ghee in the halwa will definitely give your heart a scare but anything less will not appease the locals. A morsel of this warm and orangish dessert felt divine. They also serve spicy urad dal stuffed khasta kachori that perfectly compliments the luscious pudding.

The next stop was Sohan Di Hatti sweet shop where locals flock to for their favourite sweet and savoury snacks. It is a nearly 65 years old sweet shop that started as a dairy stall. Currently run by third and fourth generation, Sohan Di Hatti is known for their desi ghee traditional sweets. The proud young proprietor Hardik made us try an array of their best selling sweets most of which were winter special sweets. There were 3 types of panjiri or powdered sweet - semolina, whole wheat flour and jaggery. Then we had til bugga which is a lohri special sweet. It was followed by fig ladoo, flaxseed ladoo and carrot burfi. Then came the turn of khajoor which is again a lohri special sweet made of refined flour. The last two sweets were mah ki dal ki pinni and mango bite. The eating experience here ended with savoury dry fruits samosa and mongra seviyan.

Before heading to our next destination, we stopped by some of the vegetable carts to check out the winter produce. Finally we arrived at the Pehalwan Kulcha Shop at Lakshmansar shop to try Amritsar's most famous kulcha. The old eatery was bustling with kulcha lovers from different walks of life and age groups. The crisp and flaky tandoor baked leavened bread is stuffed with spicy paneer and potato based mixture. These are then drenched in ghee and served with light chole (chickpeas curry), onions and tamarind chutney.

The last stop of this tour was Kanha Sweets which is one of the most recommended eateries in the city. People flock here to enjoy puris (deep fried flat breads) balloon like gigantic puri. This is served along with chole, aalu ki launji and carrot pickle. Their humble puri are so delish that at any point of time this place is abuzz with families and young crowds. The puri and aalu ki laungi made for an irresistible combination. We also tried their urad dal stuffed satpura which is a deep fried puff pastry. This too is a quintessential snack of Amritsar that is laden with ghee but still a favourite.

Overall we had a crazy time eating these classic dishes that are an integral part of Amritsar's identity.


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Design and filmed by Rahul Singh
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Text by Swetaleena Nayak

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