The Pennine Way leaves Hadrian’s Wall at Rapidshaw Gap, a mile or so to the west of Housesteads becoming a lonely walk once again. It makes its way north to Bellingham over moorland, through forests and across countryside, a distance of 15 miles and 1,080 feet of ascent.
We left the gap at 9.10am over a stile, heading north once more. Fabulous views stretched out in all directions, back towards the wall, a lough on each side of the path, and forests up ahead. We followed the path with some boggy ground, and farm tracks, before going through a gate into the Wark forest at 10am. After 15 mins we came to a sign saying there is an alternative path to the main Pennine Way to avoid storm damaged forest, dated 9th June 2022, which we took a photo of. Looking at the forest I cannot see the original route being open for a few years, as so many trees are down. We picked up the original path and arrived at Ladyhill falconry centre at 11.45am. We were hoping for some shelter and a coffee, but sadly it is shut. There are rumours that a shelter would be available to Pennine walkers, but alas nothing.
We sat on a bench eating lunch, but then the rain began. We made haste for the next few miles along a cinder track (7 miles) taking us out of the Wark forest (part of the larger Kielder Forest), round a corner, crossing more fields, before arriving at a bridge with a sign to Horneystead Farm with a shelter (the only one of the day). It was a lovely stop out of the rain, there is a serve-yourself shelter, with chairs, toilet/shower, kettle, some food and a bed, on a donation basis (1pm 8.5 miles).
We continued over the fields, down a tarmac road (2pm), then over a stile back to the countryside (10.5 miles) over a river, passing Shitlington Hall at 2.15pm. Heading north up the track, passing a farm, then a relatively steep climb up the crags, arriving at the listening station on Ealingham Rigg (755 feet high). Turn right along a track, then left, when arriving at the next road, turn left and keep off the main road for as long as you can as far as Brown Rigg caravan site. Follow the road over a bridge, then turn right, walk alongside the river before reaching the very pretty town of Bellingham.
Information
Storm Arwen affected large parts of the area in November 2021, bringing down millions of trees, and power lines. We had seen the storm damage on the news, but had not realised how badly the area had been affected. Whole areas of large (mostly pine) trees had been blown over, every forest that we walked through was damaged.
Bellingham is a lovely old town, with plenty of pubs, accommodation and a Co-op store. It is the last chance to buy for a few days. If you had spare time in Bellingham, Hareshaw Linn waterfall could be followed-the Pennine Way initially went this way before it was re-routed, (3 miles there and back). The Heritage centre also looked interesting in the former railway station.
We stayed in The Barn, Bellingham, we can’t recommend it highly enough. It was one of our favourite stays on the walk, being greeted by the very friendly owner Debbie. She could not do enough for us, recommending places to eat in the town, and phoning to book. Cooked breakfast was delicious.
We ate a lovely dinner in the Cheviot pub-glad that we had booked it in advance.
Take insect repellent, in the damp forests we met swarms of midges, which continued for the next few days. We met some ladies who had midge hoods on. If you think these nets are amusing then you have not experienced the midges. In the height of summer in Scotland, they are a real menace.
[ Ссылка ] Forest
[ Ссылка ] Storm
[ Ссылка ] Storm
[ Ссылка ] Room
[ Ссылка ] Dinner
[ Ссылка ] [ Ссылка ] Waterfall in Bellingham
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Distance 14 miles 22.5 km
Duration of Walk 6 hours 40 minutes
Average pace of walk 27 min per mile
Steps 32212
Elevation 1080 feet 330 m
