This video may serve as a BUYING GUIDE if you are on the market for a used fifth generation Ford Explorer SUV. I talk about most common mechanical problems, common rust locations and common defects. I will not be talking about mechanical components which are supposed to be regularly replaced - such as brakes and suspension components. ( 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019 | XL | XLT | LIMITED | SPORT | 3.5L | ECOBOOST ).
1. Rust is really not a big issue with Ford Explorers. Usually rear liftgate will start rusting on the inside edge and on the bottom and if not fixed when it starts it will spread and then whole liftgate will have to be redone by a professional shop. Also front hood will peel at the lip and unfortunately there is nothing you can do to avoid it.
2. Biggest flaw of these vehicles is a Power Take-off Unit (PTO). It is very badly designed as there is no bleed screw so that means it is not serviceable. Fluid inside starts to overhead and leak up top through the vent tube and then it has to be replaced. It usually fails within first 100,000 miles. I recommend replacing with aftermarket one with a drain tube.
3. Water Pumps start leaking and fail on all vehicles with time. Problem here is that water pump is located inside the engine and there is 10h labor to replace it. While doing the water pump it is a smart idea to replace the timing chains / guides as well. Usually fails around 120,000 - 140,000 miles.
4. FCIM (front interface control module) - this only applies to limited or higher trims. Sony fcim always fail and has to be replaced with a new part from a dealer which is quite pricey.
5. Backup Camera will often flicker or completely fail. You can try resetting Ford SYNC, but usually it will have to be replaced.
6. Throttle body often fails and usually throws P2111 and P2112 codes and vehicle will get stuck in Limp mode. It will have to be cleaner or eventually replaced
7. Airbag light might come on and all sensors will be usually fine. Problem is in Wiring harness. There is quite a bit of labor involved to replace it.
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While QuiteAlright strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. The videos are intended for information only. Follow the manufactures repair procedure and use appropriate safety procedures. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. QuiteAlright is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
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