How to remove the gauge cluster on first generation Toyota Tacoma. You may notice some variations between the years, this is a 2001. The reason for removing the cluster is that my temperature started acting up again, so I’m looking into a common problem for these trucks. The same issue can cause a faulty fuel gauge too.

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-phillips screwdriver
-socket set with driver handle
-nylon trim tool
-contact cleaner

Procedure:
Start by disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery.

The bottom trim piece will need to be removed under the radio bezel, there should be two clips holding this in place, one on each side. Push in the center to release the factory clips, then remove. Pull out the trim panel, then disconnect the electrical components on the rear, for this I have two 12v power ports and the factory security led.

To remove the ashtray, push down the top and then pull it straight out. Remove the one phillips screw on the bottom. Removing the HVAC panel, pull off the rotational knobs first.

Using for fingers for a nylon trim tool, unclip the panel by pulling out from the knob holes. Start from one side and move your way across. There will be two phillips screws behind this panel.

To remove the radio bezel, use the nylon trim tool and start from an edge, then work your way around disconnecting the clips. Disconnect the plug on the rear for the passenger airbag switch.

Unplug the cigarette lighter at the bottom and remove the socket for the ashtray light. Remove the knee panel below the steering column. You’ll find various phillips and 10mm fasteners. There will be screws around the hood release too.

The steering column trim will need to be removed to have enough room to take out the cluster trim. For this, there are three phillips screws in total. Gain access to two by rotating the steering wheel left and right. Remove the last screw on the bottom of the column. This is split between the top and bottom sections. Tilt the steering wheel down and then remove the top section.

Remove the clock and ignition switch bezel, this just snaps into place. Remove the two phillips screws above the cluster. Remove the three phillips screws under the dimmer switch area.

Reach in behind the dash and pull down the duct so it’s disconnected from the vent. Pull the trim out to disconnect the clips. Then disconnect the switches on the rear.

There are four phillips screws holding in the cluster. Tilt the cluster out to the passenger side. Depress the tangs on the electrical connectors and disconnect each one.

As for splitting down the cluster, there are various snaps clips holding on the lens portion. The black tabs need to be pushed down and there will need to be mild tension to keep them disconnected. Then finally remove. To remove the temperature gauge, remove the three phillips screws on the rear. You’ll have to maneuver the gauge out of its position, bend the speedometer backing out slightly and then pull out the cluster.

I have heard of issues with corrosion on the terminal so that could be a problem, however, in my situation which is very common, the nuts on the terminals come loose. A couple of these nuts were loose. You can remove these nuts, then remove the board to inspect for any corrosion. As a step for preventative maintenance, I applied some DeoxIt D100L to the terminals.

Assembly the gauge cluster in reverse of disassembly. I cleaned the lens to remove any dust which seems to settle inside over time. Make sure everything in the cluster is in its correct position. Line up the lens, then snap it back into place.

I applied more DeoxIt D100L to the connections on the rear of the cluster again. I did notice a light amount of corrosion on the one terminal.

Put the cluster back into place and install the four phillips screws. Before everything else is reinstalled, you can hook up the battery temporarily to ensure the cluster is working correctly.

Install all the other trim piece in reverse of removal.

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