This video examines a 2020 research paper titled "Into Thick(er) Air? Oxygen Availability at Humans’ Physiological Frontier on Mount Everest," focusing on the atmospheric conditions during George Mallory and Andrew Irvine’s 1924 summit attempt. Using Bently Beetham's photo taken on June 8, 1924, it becomes clear that the weather was good, with clear skies and low wind, debunking the long-held myth of a massive storm. The video points out that 12 photos from that day confirm there was no significant storm, and the virtual altitude due to higher air pressure in June was lower than in May, making the climb physiologically easier.
A comparison is made to Reinhold Messner’s oxygen-less ascent in 1980, which benefited from similar conditions, and Erhard Loretan’s 1985 climb, which faced the highest virtual altitude recorded. Mallory and Irvine were likely climbing into “thick air,” and Odell’s sighting of them at 12:50 PM near the Third Step supports the idea that they were on track to summit.
The video debunks several myths, including the idea that Mallory couldn’t have climbed the Second Step—he likely bypassed it—and the false narrative of inadequate clothing. It argues that the atmospheric conditions lowered the summit’s virtual altitude by approximately 100 meters, making the climb more feasible. Additionally, Mallory and Irvine had a solid plan involving oxygen bottle caching, and items found on Mallory’s body suggest they were descending at night.
Ultimately, the video concludes there is overwhelming evidence that Mallory and Irvine reached the summit, but the lack of a search for summit rocks in 1999 leaves us without definitive proof. It also discredits the theory that a massive storm occurred, arguing that the drop in air pressure noted on June 9, 1924, was simply due to a different time of day for the measurement. The video emphasizes the need to move beyond debunked myths and focus on the factual evidence surrounding their climb.
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