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Before applying any makeup, clean your face with warm water and take back any hair with clips or even more practical, a big headband like this one here.

As for the 1st layer of makeup, the base, we’ll use a primer to minimize the amount of visible pores. A good primer should be lightweight, and hardly noticeable but still enough to cover small blemishes and create an overall smooth complexion.

Once prepped we can move on to the main part, shading. Instead of normal foundation we’ll use 2 types of stick foundation, one about 3 shades lighter, and the other 3 shades darker than your skin tone. Shading really is just a way of applying foundation while manipulating shadow and light to emphasize or change your facial features. Now I’ll show you a way of applying shading suitable for cosplaying manga style characters.

Use the highlighting stick to cover the area from your inner eye corner, cheekbones and up to your temples.
Now, highlight your forehead. The fun thing is that you can draw any shape you like because we’ll have to smudge it later anyway. Next, go all along your brow bone and let the highlighter meet at your temples again. A thin line on top of your nose, a half circle above your lips and a two finger thick V shape just between your jaw and cheekbones.

On to the darker, shading colour. Draw 2 thin lines above 2/3rds of your nose and close off with a straight line at the tip. Pull a straight line under your lips. Now, follow the V shape with the shading colour, but this time just on your jaw, creating an obtuse triangle shape. Shade the sides of your forehead as well as the outer part of your eye lids.

This one is not foundation but rouge which will help creating a more natural transition of colours when applied on your cheek bones.

Now I’ll simply use a clever shaped sponge with various edges to blend the shading. Don’t pull, just dab gently remember to fit the edges of the sponge to your natural facial lines for optimal contouring.

For anime like lips, blend them out with highlighter and replace them with a thin line drawn with dark brown colour. If you like, lengthen the corners of your mouth as well.

So far so good, but we have to set the foundation with powder for a complete finish!

Apply highlighting & shading powder over the corresponding areas. Translucent powder would create a more natural look, but since this makeup is for cosplay, pigmented shadows are recommended.

When cosplaying it is very likely that you are going to wear a wig. Another handy cheat for a smaller face and bigger eyes is to face lift using first aid tape. I recommend using 2-3 6inch strips, place them on your temples, pull lightly for a mini face lift and stick the rest on your wig cap. The skin around your eyes is sensitive so avoid pulling your skin too harsh, and definitely make sure that the tape your using is hypoallergenic and isn’t giving your skin rashes.

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