The battle that took place here at Kerbala in the year 680 is central to the schism between Sunni and Shia muslims today. Hussein (Husayn) Ali, the grandson of the prophet Mohammed, was killed by the much larger army of the Umayyads in a war of succession. The history of the division is far too complex for this short film but, at its core, Shia muslims consider Hussein Ali to be the true successor to the prophet. Hussein’s half-brother and the first imam, Ali Al Abbas was also killed in the same battle and their respective tombs are now visited by millions of pilgrims annually.

Annually it's thought that Up to 34 million pilgrims visit the city to observe ʿĀshūrāʾ , which marks the anniversary of the death of Husayn Ali, Many of the pilgrims travel on foot from all around Iraq, from Iran, and even further afield.

Travel from Iran was heavily restricted during the time of Saddam Hussein so the end of his regime was felt particularly strongly here as the barriers to pilgrimage were removed. That joy has, however, been tempered periodically by terrorist attacks and security here is tight.

It is held that there is a lot of benefit and great spiritual reward in visiting the grave of Imam Hussain ]. The Prophet said of his grandson : “Husayn is of me and I am of him”. Several narrations mention that visiting the grave of Imam Husayn relieves one of worldly afflictions as well as those after death.
Accordingly, Believers come from all parts of the world all year round to receive the honour of visiting Imam Husayn, particularly during the first ten days of Muharram (Ashura) and the twentieth of Safar (the fortieth).
One common Iraqi custom during that season is for Bellievers to walk from Najaf to Karbala, reflecting their strong adhesion to and adoption of the morals and principles for which Imam Husayn struggled and attained martyrdom

Karbala contains, besides the grave of Imam Husayn and his brother, the grave of all the 72 martyrs of Karbala. They were buried in a mass grave which was then covered with soil all the way to ground level. This mass grave is at the foot of Imam Husayn's grave. In particular, besides Imam Husayn's grave are the graves of his two sons Ali Akbar and 6-month old Ali Asgher.

It was a privilege to visit this sacred city.

Filmed October 2023
Jonathan Wheeler
Travel Obscurer
@TravelObscurer
(See also sister channel "eye scotland")
Incidental music licensed through Artlist.

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