In today's episode, we embark on a delightful food tour through the serene and historic town of Orchha, located in the Niwari district of Madhya Pradesh along the peaceful Betwa River. Our journey began with a visit to the revered Raja Ram Mandir, the only temple in India where Lord Ram is worshipped as a king. Surrounding the temple were numerous shops selling kalakand and peda, popular as prasad offerings. Being sweet lovers, we couldn’t resist trying these sweets to see how they differed from what we find in Delhi. The version here was smooth, creamy, and reminiscent of milk cake, made purely with milk and sugar and with a rich caramelized flavor.
As we explored the temple vicinity further, we came across the ever-popular puri sabzi stalls, along with a unique buttermilk drink called sannata. This dish is a staple at religious places throughout northern India. We decided to stop at the renowned Tiwari Ji Ki Kutiya, which boasts quite a legacy. The owner was brimming with stories about the shop's history, proudly sharing that it was nearly as old as the temple itself. The puris were paired with a runny, no-onion, no-garlic potato curry that was mild in spice but full of comforting flavors. To complement the meal, we tried the special sannata, a buttermilk drink tempered with cumin, hing, rock salt, chillies, and herbs like coriander and mint. The drink’s name, meaning "silence" in English, symbolized the calming and refreshing effect it had on our senses, leaving us feeling cool and content.
Next, we made our way to one of Orchha’s most popular eateries, the Ramraja Restaurant and Cafe. This vibrant spot, largely catering to the town's international visitors, is run by the enterprising Parwat Lal Kewat. Starting with a humble food stall, Parwat Lal learned from the foreign tourists who frequented Orchha and quickly mastered a variety of international dishes. On his recommendation, we enjoyed a macchiato and a flavorful vegetarian pizza. His story of growth and innovation is truly inspiring.
Continuing our food journey, we visited Cafe Nomad, a quaint and colorful cafe adorned with artistic wall paintings, dreamcatchers, and a cozy, bohemian atmosphere. After a brief chat with the manager, we tried their Alfredo pasta. While the pasta was enjoyable, it was the cafe's inviting vibe and ambiance that truly stood out.
As we headed back to Jhansi, we made a quick stop at Janki Ji Ki Rasoi, located near Orchha Club & Resort on Jhansi-Orchha Road. Here, we indulged in their special homestyle thali, a simple yet soulful meal that felt like a warm embrace after a long day of exploration.
Our final stop was MD Dhaba in Azadpur, where we couldn’t leave without trying their famous tikkad. This thick multigrain flatbread, rustic and hearty, was the perfect conclusion to our delightful food adventure in Orchha.
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