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Luxury watches for summer seas are on the table as Tim Mosso and Brian Govberg pull the best from the at Watchbox. Today’s show celebrates the ultimate warm weather watch class and the most popular class of watches overall. With standout divers from Blancpain, Grand Seiko, Hublot, IWC, Linde Werdelin, and De Bethune, today’s exhibition showcases our personal favorites and best-in-class standouts.

Brian’s selection includes the three all-black watches in PVD stainless steel, vulcanized rubber-wrapped steel, and titanium sheathed in carbon fiber.

Hublot’s immense King Power Oceanographique 4000 is a 500-piece limited edition in a case fit for a submarine. While overpowering in presence, this Hublot proves to be a gentle giant and a pleasure to wear. Thanks to carbon, titanium, and composite plastic, the big Oceanographic can reside on the wrists of average sized aquatic adventurers. With an internal rotating dive bezel, a helium gas escape valve, and 4000-meter water resistance, this is an Hublot that lives up to its hyperbolic billing.

Linde Werdelin is a small independent watch brand that designs in Denmark and builds in Switzerland. The Linde Werdelin Hard Black II is an 88-piece black steel limited edition that proves dive watches and thin cases need not be mutually exclusive. This versatile 300-meter diver also includes modular docking “wings” that allow Linde Werdelin’s “Reef” dive computer and “Rock” ski computer to mount to the watch when desired.

IWC’s Aquatimer Chronograph Edition Galapagos Islands is a 45mm rubber-wrapped diving chronograph with unexpected refinements. First, the IWC manufacture caliber 89365 offers a flyback chronograph function, which is rare on a dive watch. Second, the IWC “SafeDive” internal bezel references the original 1967 IWC Aquatimer while guarding against accidental bezel motion during a dive. Finally, the quick-release lug system permits rapid swapping of straps without tools.

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms diver created the modern dive watch in 1953, but Tim’s favorite version launched in 2017. This titanium Fifty Fathoms includes a full-satin case that mutes the high-polish of the standard 5015, and the titanium model adds a rich blue dial to match. With a five-day power reserve, 300-meter water resistance, a new display caseback, and considerable hand-finishing, this is a true high horology dive watch to rival the best from Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille.

Grand Seiko dive watches offer value and capability to rival any Swiss rivals. The SBGA231 Spring Drive diver includes a rich hand-finished 44.2mm titanium case polished to a mirror shine by Grand Seiko’s “Zaratsu” polishing method. A dive clasp offers immense adjustability for use over dive suits or for minor sizing changes. Finally an unerring Grand Seiko Spring Drive automatic movement provides 72 hours of power reserve and precision of +/- 15 seconds per month.

Arguably the most impressive new watch of 2019, the De Bethune DB28 GS Grand Bleu is the first dive watch from the ultra haute horlogerie De Bethune brand of watchmaker Denis Flageollet and CEO Pierre Jacques. This 44mm grail watch includes a five-day power reserve, 105-meter water resistance, a rotating “dive” style bezel, a power reserve indicator, and a revolutionary LED lighting system powered by the mainspring barrels. All of that is delivered with the signature twin-barrel movement and floating lugs that won the 2011 GPHG Aiguille d’Or – effectively “Best Picture” at the Oscars of watchmaking.

Watches Featured in this Episode:

• Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 5015-12B40-O52A
• De Bethune DB28 GS Grand Bleu DB28GSV2AN
• Grand Seiko Spring Drive Diver SBGA231
• Hublot King Power Oceanographique 4000 731.QX.1140.RX
• IWC Aquatimer Chronograph Edition Galapagos Islands IW3795-02
• Linde Werdelin Hard Black II HBII.2.6


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