Fitting Dyneema Chainplates on a 44 year old boat?! We had better test our novel solution!
We are changing all the standing rigging on our 1977 Rival 38 to Dyneema synthetic rigging. That includes all shrouds, stays and even the chainplates for both masts of our ketch rig.
Here we start tensioning our chainplate loops and do a first load test. To learn how to make these see [ Ссылка ] ("Make an EASY Amsteel soft shackle with overhand knot - includes break tests!" from HowNOT2)
This is the second episode in our Dyneema series that will cover all the design choices, the practicalities of a completely DIY re-rig and then how it works out when we go sailing.
Our goal is a rig that is:
- stronger
- lighter
- cheaper
- allows us to sail faster
- lasts longer
- can be DIY maintained even replaced, anywhere in the world
We are refitting a 44 year old Rival 38 for a Sustainable Sailing retirement in a few years. Two years ago, when we bought Vida she was in a very tired and damp condition with all original equipment and fittings (much of it not working). We have removed all the gas, diesel and paraffin equipment, and are installing all electric (motor, cooking etc).
Our masts are both down and have been almost completely stripped, then painted with:
2 coats epoxy primer (with epoxy filler between coats)
1 coat of two part undercoat
2 coats of two part top coat
We have fitted new FR4 backing plates for the mizzen chainplates and are getting ready to do the backing plates for the main mast chainplates.
Our Chainplates are essentially an overhand knot soft shackle with the "eye" above deck (the shrouds get lashed to this). The knot is below the backing plate.
Not only are we fitting Dyneema chainplates we are also having a Dyneema forestay which means no roller reefing. So we are modifying our original sails to be hank on (with webbing hanks). We have upgraded our Bow Roller to support this.
Lots more detail on our blog at [ Ссылка ]
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Or visit our shop at [ Ссылка ]
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