How to replace the front pads and rotors on a first generation 4wd Toyota Tacoma. The year of this truck is a 2001. In order to produce this video, Bosch has been kind enough to provide me with the parts required for this replacement. #toyota #toyotatacoma #toyota4runner
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Elevate the one wheel safely and place jack stands under the truck as a safety. Remove the wheel, the lug nuts are 21mm. Pop the cap on the master cylinder to relieve any pressure.
You’ll need to remove the metal string wire retainer for the pad pins first. Simple push the hook side down, then pull it back through the hole. You may need pliers to remove the wire retainer from each of the pins.
Using a round punch, it’s best to start with the bottom pin first. Pliers can be used after to remove each of the pins. Then pull out the anti rattle clip and make note of it’s orientation.
Before removing the pads, I always find it easier to push back the pistons using larger interlocking pliers. Now the old pads should lift out by hand. If they’re binging, you may either have rust or dirt build up on the caliper which would need to be cleaning using a wire brush.
In order to remove the caliper, there are two 17mm bolts connecting it to the steering knuckle. These bolts will be tight so with the wheel angled out, you can easily get a johnson or breaker bar in here. After they’re loose a 1/2” ratchet with a regular socket gains access just fine.
Remove the two bolts. And then lift off the caliper. Tie the caliper off caliper using a bungie cord. And now remove the rotor which simply sits in places.
It’s important to compare the old and new rotors to ensure they are the same. For rotors, these are Bosch’s QuietCast premium brake rotors are 100% balanced for smooth operation and have a bi-metal aluminum zinc coating to help prevent rust, give that clean rotor look especially on vehicles when more open wheels while providing a long life. Due to the new coating, these do not have an oiled coating so there’s no need for cleaning during the installation process.
Install the rotor. You can install a couple lug nuts to help hold the rotor in place, making the installation of the caliper and pads much easier. Make sure you do not get any oil or grease on the braking surface of the rotor, otherwise this can cause issues. If you do, use brake cleaner and a rag to remove the oil or grease residue.
Next install the caliper. The torque specifications for the caliper to steering knuckle bolts is 90 ft lbs or 123nm. If you find your bolts are rusty, clean the threads using a wire brush and a medium grade threadlocker can be used here.
The inner and outer pads are the same, it’s a good idea to compare the old and new pads to ensure they are the same. Make sure the pin holes are facing out and the small radius cut in the backing plate of the pad is facing towards the hub side. The pads should slide in easily with no binding.
The retaining pins have also been cleaned up using a wire brush, there is no need for lubricant on these as dust or dirt can stick to the pins and risks having grease drip on the braking surface.
The spring clip has been cleaned up as well, inspect for any damage such as crack and replace if necessary.
Install the top retaining pin with the spring clip, the hook portion faces towards the top. Push down the spring clip, then install the lower pin. These pins should have a sliding fit. They may need to be rotated to positing the wire retainer holes in the correct position. Then install the wire retainer.
And push the hooked portion in the caliper hole.
Make sure the hub surface on the wheel is clean, use a brass wire brush if needed and then install back onto the truck. The torque specification for the wheel is 85ft lbs or 115nm, however this may vary between years of trucks.
Moving onto the opposite side. Do the same for the other side.
Once the truck is back on the ground, reinstall the master cylinder cap. Then pump the brakes to ensure they are in the correct position and your truck won’t throw any brake codes.
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