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May 26, 2022

"To Andre!"

Camino De Santiago Day 3: Roncesvalles Pilgrim's Hostel to Zubiri, Spain

24 km (14.9 miles-we think more like 17 miles), 434 meters (1426 feet) elevation gain

The lights at the Roncesvalles Pilgrim's Hostel were on immediately at 6am. I know, because I was awake again most of the night.

Almost immediately the room was buzzing with life, pilgrims clearing off beds and getting ready for the walk ahead. We went to breakfast which consisted of ham and cheese on toasted bread, fruit, cafe con leche, and orange juice joined by fellow pilgrims we met in St Jean Pied De Port.

By 8:00 am all were headed out. The trail began very scenic like with forests (including a forest known for witchcraft) and fairytale 12th century towns in this Navarre region.

Second breakfast came quickly at the local market. We purchased Spanish olives, a fresh baguette, sheep cheese, and a little vino to enjoy on benches nearby.

We met several pilgrims along the way including a couple originally from South Africa but now living in Massachusetts, a mom/daughter duo from Montana, and a group of fortunate CSU students (our daughter's college) who were on a study abroad program hiking throughout Europe.

Then today's work really began. Up, up, up..down. Up, up, up..down. Up, up, up..down. I found myself chanting this mantra in my head while trying not to focus on the terrain ahead. The last mile or so into Zubiri was so treacherous downhill, I stopped photographing.

Focusing on where to place my next step became my top priority.

Several heart shaped rocks and flower petals inspired me to continue forward as did Andre. He set the pace for today's hike, providing encouragement when it was SO needed.

After 8 hours, we arrived with screaming feet and knees into Zubiri with it's Romanic bridge. I found myself continuously thinking about fellow slow-paced trekkers we met that were behind us, hoping they made it safely.

After soaking our feet in the Arga River, we continued another 700 meters to our hostel for the evening, taking note of a market, farmacia, and bank nearby that we would visit the next morning.

Greeting us warmly at Casa Suseia was our host Sarah. The smells of dinner being prepared made us instantly aware of how hungry we really were. She gave us a tour of the casa and showed us to our bed, a private room and bath. We showered quickly so as to not miss dinner.

We arrived to the dinner table, where I instantly heard, "Mum!!" Sitting at the table were our German and Irish friends we met at Auburge Borda 2 nights previous on the top of the Pyrenees Mountains.

Dinner was amazing! The food, conversation, and Camino family was exactly what we needed after this very difficult day. We all agreed that the hike today was more like 17 miles, not 14.9. Sarah's Navarre inspired cooking was an all-time favorite. Her beet gazpacho soup was beautiful in presentation and also in my tummy.

But the one thing I am the most grateful for today is Andre. He continuously pushed me through my barriers when I felt myself wanting to break down. He encouraged me to move forward and to focus on why we're doing this journey.

Therefore, today's post is dedicated to Andre. More than once the taxi sign beckoned and more than once Andre's "let's keep going" attitude pushed me forward. So, "To Andre!" it is and to sleep land I go!

A André!

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