John: Welcome to Ask the Baritone Baker. I’m John McKee and I’m here to answer your burning questions about baking.
Lisa: Some recipes call for Dutch processed cocoa. What is the difference and can I substitute regular cocoa?
John: Cocoa was developed in the 1800’s in Holland so that chocolate could be shipped without melting in the heat. The cocoa fat was removed from the cocoa beans leaving the powdered chocolate, which was called cocoa powder. Further processing with an alkalizing agent (or base) reduced the acidity of the cocoa giving it a milder, smoother flavor, darker color, and increased solubility. This alkalizing process is called the Dutch process. This type of cocoa works well in European pastries and cakes because the cocoa is combined with other flavors. Droste, Lindt, Valrhona, and Pernigotti are primarily Dutch-process brands. There are also brands of a heavily Dutched cocoa powder that is used in Oreo cookies and other dark chocolate good. Guittard Cocoa Noir is an example of this type of cocoa.
Natural cocoa is not processed with an alkalizing agent. It is the acidic powder that results from removing the fat from cocoa beans. Natural cocoa is lighter in color and has a sharp, citrusy flavor. The intense flavor of natural cocoa is best in brownies, cookies, and some chocolate cakes. Hershey’s, Ghirardelli, and Scharffen Berger are all primarily natural cocoa brands.
The key to substituting natural cocoa for Dutch-process cocoa is to be aware of the leavening agent in the recipe (either baking soda or baking powder) and acidic ingredients like buttermilk, lemon, vinegar, or cream of tartar. When using Dutch-process cocoa, you want to use baking powder, which is acidic. Baking powder is a blend of baking soda and an acidic ingredient such as cream of tartar. The cream of tartar activates the baking soda producing bubbles, thus your cake rises. When using natural cocoa, the acidic nature of the cocoa acts as the activating agent for baking powder, thus you can use half the amount of baking soda and get the same amount of rise in your cake.
You can definitely substitute one type of cocoa for another as long as you use the correct leavening agent. You’ll want to also consider the difference in flavor:
Dutch-process cocoa + baking powder - Woodsy, earthy flavor
Natural cocoa + baking soda (1/2 of the amount of baking powder) - Sharp, citrusy flavor
