Thank you for all the love on this video - I appreciate that many of you have questions about this method. I am not able to answer every question with the attention they deserve, but I have recorded myself creating another bodice block with the same method recently, please find this updated version here: [ Ссылка ]
In this video I will explain how to draft a bodice block to your own measurements, step by step.
The best way to watch this video is with your tools in hand, headphones on, and listening to each step one by one.
To draw this to size you will need:
- Measuring tape
- Long ruler
- Curved uler/pattern master
- Erasable pen and sharpie to trace once you're done
- Scissors
00:00 Intro
02:10 Taking your measurements
1. Waist circumference
2. Bust circumference
3. Neck circumference
4. Nape of neck to waist
5. Nape of neck to bust
6. Armscye (nape of neck to just under your armhole)
7. Apex to apex
8. Shoulder length
9. Back width
04:35 Step 1: Constructing the grid
A) Construct CB
B) Draw the bustline
C) Draw the waistline
D) Draw your center front
E) Mark the armscye line
06:32 Step 2: Constructing the bodice back
A) Construct back neckline
B) Drafting the back shoulder seam
C) Drafting the shoulder dart
D) Draw your side seam
E) Drafting the back bodice armhole
F) Constructing the back darts
Waist dart calculation:
Subtract your waist measurement from your bust measurement and divide your answer by 2.
Divide this number by three, so that it can be distributed throughout back dart, front dart and side seam.
E.g:
Bust 88 cm - Waist 72cm = 16 cm
16 cm divided by 2 = 8 cm
We need to divide these 8 cm in 3 areas, your side seam, as well as the front and back dart. I like to use less in my side, and more in my darts:
3 cm for the back dart
3 cm for the front dart
2 cm for the side seam
09:57 Step 3: Constructing the bodice front
A) Drawing your front neckline
B) Marking the bust apex
C) Draft the front shoulder dart
On your CF line, measure 0.5 cm up from point 24
Calculation of the front shoulder dart:
For every 4 cm increment above or below 88 cm bust circumference, subtract or add 0.4 cm.
If your bust circumference is 84 cm, subtract 0.4 cm from 7, if it is 92, add 0.4 cm, and so on.
Take your shoulder measurement and add the correct dart width cm.
E.g shoulder width 11 cm + 7.4 cm (bust of 92) = 18.4 cm
D) Mark your front side seam
E) Finish your front armhole
F) Draw your side seam
G) Construct your front waist dart
H) Extend your CF line to finish the bodice
13:49 Crosschecking
This tutorial is not scientific, but it is an amalgamation of a few different ways to draft a well fitting bodice block, and I have found this work the best for me.
For another take, visit inthefolds.com (unsponsored, unaffiliated): inthefolds.com/blog/2016/2/22/how-to-draft-a-bodice-block
While I usually show you my sewing journey from initial project idea to finished garment, I wanted to give you the key to unlocking pattern drafting for yourself. I hope this gives you inspiration and motivation to get yourself a sewing machine or dust off the one you already have and get going. You can do it!
~Would love to connect with you~
I’m Elisa and I'm passionate about fashion and try to bring my designs to life on my machines. Attempting to show you how I make them here on Youtube, tutorial-style. Let’s learn together ♡ Thanks for watching!
~FAQ~
Where are you from? I'm a London girl made in Austria ♡
How old are you? Born in Nov 1993
Where/how did you learn to sew? I attended Fashion School from age 15 to 19 but stopped sewing after that - learned it all over again in the last 3 years
What machine do you use? Brother Innov-Is A16 sewing machine and a Brother overlocker
What camera do you use? Currently iPhone 13 Pro
If you attempt to recreate one of my projects for yourself I would love to see the result! Please tag me on Instagram via @thrillsandstitches or send me a message.
Instagram: @thrillsandstitches
Pinterest: https:[ Ссылка ]
Enquiries: thrillsandstitches@icloud.com
