INTRO 0:00
BASIC FIMENT INFO 1:02
BRAKE CLEARANCE ON 3000GT 2:17
3000GT FITMENT EXAMPLES 3:50
WRAP UP 8:06

Need some wheels for your 3KGT? We've got you
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Is it the Supra killer? Today we are giving some attention to the most slept on 90’s JDM cars of all time, the 1990-2000 Mitsubishi 3000GT.
Depending on where you’re located, it could be called a 3000GT, Dodge Stealth, or GTO. If you’re in North America, like us, you’ll see a bit of all three. We got the Stealth and 3000GT, plus GTO’s have been eligible for import for a few years.
As a car built to compete with the likes of FD RX-7’s, Supra’s, and GT-R’s, the 3000GT came with a host of go-fast 90’s tech including active aero, adaptive dampening, and 4-wheel steering. But you know what it didn’t come with from the factory? A decent set of wheels.
A set of aftermarket wheels will give better performance and fitment. This fitment guide will give you everything you need to know. The cool thing is that with renewed interest in this platform, the car community recently figured out how to make these look good - it's like we cracked the enigma code to distinguish these cars from Satruns. A large part of this is the choice of wheels. So without further adieu, let’s get into the details:
QUICK LINKS
Basic fitment info
Recommended specs
Brake Clearance
Examples of fitment
BASIC FITMENT INFO
Lug pattern: 5x114.3
Lug thread: M12x1.5
Center bore: 67.1mm
Lug torque: 96 ft lbs
As you’d expect from a JDM classic the lug pattern, thread, and center bore are all typical sizes, meaning you're free to run a plethora of old-school and new-school wheels on your 3S.
We have tons of wheels that fit
What aftermarket wheels work on a 3000GT?
Factory specs range from passable, but not great, to way way too small. The fact that a Dodge Stealth, weighing 3.5K lbs, got 15x6.5 wheels is a little absurd. These are big ol’ cars and can take some decently sized wheels. 17” is the only factory size we can recommend. 19” diameter wheels can look good on certain builds, but can also look like clown shoes. 18” is the happy medium - you really can’t go wrong with this size, regardless of what wheels you choose.
For width and offset, the front is the limiting factor as it’s pretty narrow on these cars. You could go for a staggered setup, however, most people like to keep it square and deal with the limitations. 8.5 to 9.5” width with an offset between +20 and +40 will work on this chassis. This doesn’t narrow the options down much, so we’ll go through some examples later.
Caliper clearance
In classic Mitsubishi style, these cars have wheel-to-caliper clearance troubles - but not in the usual way. Normally, problems would arise from your brakes being too big, but with the 3S they can actually be too small. The trouble area is the wheel mounting surface instead of the face or the barrel. This is especially true on the first generation, which has smaller brakes than the 2G.
For the 1G, options are extremely limited. As in: a few models of JDM classics such as Work, SSR, plus some models from TSW. A lot of the time wheel spacers are needed. 2G brakes still aren’t a miracle fix and might still require spacers.
The classic solution was to convert your 1G to 2G brakes, but those are becoming unobtainium and getting JDM-tax’d. So, we recommend a retrofit from another car.
An Evo X brake conversion involves using the Evo knuckle and other OEM parts. If you’re thrifty when sourcing parts, this can be a lot cheaper than an aftermarket BBK. Either way, upgrading the brakes will give you more clearance plus add some stopping power at the same time.
Staggered wheels on AWD cars
As long as the rolling diameter is within 2% front to rear, you’re in the clear. Rolling diameter refers to the overall diameter of the tires. You can play with offset, width, tire specs, whatever, as long as the final diameter of the tire comes within a +/- 2% difference. A popular combination is 245/40 front and 275/35 rear, this falls well within the tolerance.

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