How to remove the rear bumper on a first-gen Toyota Tacoma. This procedure may also apply to other Toyota truck models. I’m working with a 2001 model here and as a bit of a bonus, this truck is getting a bumper upgrade. As you can see the old factory bumper is rotten in the center so I have made a custom tube bumper instead. I’ll also touch base on the hitch removal too. #toyota #toyotatacoma #taco
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-ratchet and johnson bar
-20mm socket
-20mm wrench
-phillips screwdriver
Procedure:
You may be required to elevate the rear, depending on if you have a 4wd or 2wd truck. This is a 4wd, so there’s plenty of room to get under the truck.
I’ve already gone ahead and removed the license plate. Next is disconnecting the license plate lights. You can probably reach around and twist the lights out, however they only help in with two phillips screws each. Remove the light assembly and then twist the lights out on the rear.
There will be four bolts in total which hold on the bumper brackets to the frame. This is my preferred route to remove the bumper. However, you can disconnect the bumper at the end of the brackets and I’ll show you this further on in the video. The hitch doesn’t allow for easy access to the bolts at the bumper, so the frame connection is easier.
The rear bolts are seized so I had to use a torch to heat them. When using a torch, be extremely careful around the rear light harness that runs on top of the frame rail on the driver’s side.
The bolts farthest away from the bumper go into a welded in the nut on the frame. These only need to be backed out about a 1/2” at the very most as they fit into an open slotted hole on the brackets. The bolts closest to the bumper use a nut and this will need to be held and removed completely. All bolts and nuts are 20mm.
A view on the inside of the frame when removing.
Leave the closest bolts to the bumper in place until you’re fully ready to remove the bumper, otherwise, it will flip down on you.
I left the receiver in on the hitch so the bumper has somewhere to sit. Pull the bumper out slowly, some of the trailer wiring was zip-tied and tangled in place so that needed to be disconnected as well.
Then pull off the bumper. It’s not overly heavy so it’s manageable by myself.
As for the bolts on the inside of the bumper holding on the brackets, these go into welded nuts on the bracket and are 20mm as well. I used a torch here as they were badly seized.
These brackets will be reused on my new bumper, however, they will be cut down so I just cut off the old bolts instead using the torch.
And a view once the bumper is disassembled.
As for the hitch, I purchased new bolts as it wasn’t worth trying to salvage the old hardware. I cut off all the bolts. The fasteners closest to the bumper are carriage bolts going into L brackets that fit inside the channel on the frame. The bolts further up closer to the axle go into welded in nuts inside the cross member. The heads of the bolts were too far gone and the room is limited for larger tools, the heads were washed away using the torch and then I welded on nuts and removed them by hand with a bit of patience.
To maneuver the hitch out, the driver’s side needs to be pushed forward, then lower it past the leaf spring, slide it over and remove from the exhaust side.
As for my custom bumper, this will be a rough overview and a full fabrication view will be on my metalworking channel. I used 3/16” thick 2x6 tubing as a base.
Made the necessary cuts for my design.
Made a license plate area.
Welded everything together.
Fitted the factory brackets and welded them in place.
The rear frame was also cleaned up and treated while everything was apart.
The bumper was prepped for paint and I applied a box liner spray for a textured durable finish.
Installed generic LED lights for the license plate so there wouldn’t be any issues with local regulations. The factory wiring was cut and has weatherproof connectors installed.
The factory torque specifications for the 20mm bolts are 59 ft-lbs or 80nm.
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