Working charging system. There is no need to remove the regulator cover for any of these procedures.
In the 1st video the generator is polarized. This is usually the first step in troubleshooting a charging issue. This should be done whenever the battery has to be charged from dead or is disconnected from the system. It can also be done just to be sure that it is not in truth all that is wrong with the charging system. This will not work if your battery is already dead (uncharged). Be certain the tractor is off; all tractor wiring is in place connected, and in good condition.
This 2nd video shows a way to prove the electrical system has all that it needs to run the tractor even if the battery fails.
This 3rd video shows the output voltage as measured at the F and then the A terminals of the generator (about 1.25 to 1.33vdc).Remove or isolate all generator wiring on the A and F terminals prior to testing.
This 4th video can be called the spin or motoring test. Be certain the tractor is off. Remove belt from generator pulley. Remove or isolate all generator wiring for the A and F terminals. Some others videos have shown a similar test. I have found that my generator did not work properly (had a bad armature) if it only spins but did not speed up upon the removal of the field wire from chassis (+ ground). On a good system it will speed up when the field wire is removed and spin even faster when the field wire is touched multiple times is quick succession to chassis (+ ground).
Lastly the 5th and final video shows a working charging system. Be certain all tractor wiring is in place, connected and in good condition. You see (on a volts meter and amp gauge) a good charging system with the Regulator, regulating at about 8 volts with only a small amount of amps as needed to keep the tractor running and top off the battery voltage.
