Learn the EASIEST technique for a root shadow | smudge!
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Knowing how to properly add a faux root, or “shadow root” as it’s most commonly referred to, has become an essential skill for all colorists to master. Notice how I said “all” colorists. This technique isn’t just for balayage clients, it’s for any client looking for a more natural grow out and less distinctive line of demarcation. If you haven’t taken the time to learn this technique, there’s no better time to get started than right now.
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Here are some reasons for adding a shadow root:
⁃To blend or mute the color at the line of demarcation
⁃To reduce (or eliminate) warmth at the transition area
⁃To add depth to a look
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So how do you decide what color to use? If I’m not worried about covering gray, then I will almost always reach for a Demi-permanent color, 1-2 shades lighter than the natural root level. For instance, if the root color is around a level 5, I’ll most likely aim for a 6/7 depending on the brand. That’s because my goal is to mute the color at the line of demarcation, not completely erase it. I still want to see it, I just want to drop the highlighted areas down to create a more seamless blend from roots to ends.
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As for tone, if we intend to cover up warmth that was created from highlighting or balayaging on darker colors, I’ll use an Ash, or Natural Ash. If it’s level 9 or 10 highlight that we are trying to blend into a darker, natural root color, we might want to add back in some Gold and Copper, if we are afraid an Ash might make the final effect too muddy.
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Processing time can vary, and it’s important you mix according to manufacturer’s instructions to get the most depth and longevity out of it. However, it’s important to watch it closely to make sure it’s doing what you’ve intended. Some artists I know will purposely use a darker level with more pigment, but only leave it on for a few minutes. Others will leave it on the full time. And then some, like me, will leave it on for 5-15 minutes depending on the depth and effect we are going for.

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