For all the amazing rides you see at big Uluwatu, there's countless more of struggles and challenges that happen between those magical moments of actually riding a wave.
Here's a great example, of how quickly a surfer can get washed in, almost to the beach. From that point it's a long paddle back out to where he began. He'll have to deal with a river like current and more sets on the head before making it back to the lineup.
This was filmed during peak swell season a few months ago. You can see the rest of this session here: [ Ссылка ]
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The Reality Of Surfing Big Uluwatu
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