This video is a demonstration of Making a Teapot with A Collar From Soft Slabs- Rounding a Cylinder, Making a Spout, Hollow Handle, Lid, and Footring- (intermediate to advanced). I am using a soft slab which I texture in this video- but of course, you can make it without texture. My ceramics II students have a textured slab set project for which this technique really lends itself. The following link is a PDF of a photo of the patterns. [ Ссылка ]
The dimensions are written on most of the patterns. The patterns will be on an 8.5x11” document, but you can enlarge it to make it whatever size you want.
As I recommend in the video, I suggest that if you have not done soft slab building previously, that you start with something a bit easier- like a cup or a bowl to learn the basics of this method of construction before you try something more advanced with so many multiple parts like the teapot. Here are a couple of videos here for a good place to start:
Slab cylinder bowl: [ Ссылка ]
Slab cylinder cups: [ Ссылка ]
Tripod Cylinder cups: [ Ссылка ]
Cylinder cup with squared bottom: [ Ссылка ]
The slabs are rolled using my ¼” thick hardwood slab sticks and a rolling pin. I then textured the slabs before cutting out the patterns. I am using a beautiful MKM roller to add my texture to the clay I could have dusted it with cornstarch- but don’t believe I bothered on this one. I use the Kemper SWB scratchwire brush for scoring the slabs and attachments. (See my doc below for links to the MKM rollers and tools). When the main body of the teapot form is built, then I show the stretching and shaping of the belly to create a rounded appearance. I also show how to make the spout and handle, and I cut the collar for the teapot and drape it over a bisque mold to get it to curve. (Learned this first from Sandi Pierantozzi… check out her gorgeous work!) During the second session, I make a footring and lid. The next day, I show how I attach the collar, footring, spout, and handle. I do poke a small hole in the handle with a needle tool off camera to allow a vent hole for thorough drying. When everything is finished, I don’t believe I mention it, but SLOW DRYING is of the greatest importance for even drying. Don’t ever allow your teapots to dry uncovered quickly… it is the surest way to get cracking at your handles! I cover mine with a few layers of a heavy bath towel, and then lightly drape a bag over that. It took a week to A week and a half to dry before I fired it.
Check out my Amazon Influencer Store where I have recommendations for some of my favorite tools and products many of which I use in my videos- which are available on Amazon. [ Ссылка ]
For the great tools I used in the video (including the MKM rollers and the wooden Kemper tools) check out this link to a live Googledoc I continually update with lots of my favorite tools on Amazon using my associate links! (also some non-amazon suggestions on here!)
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In this video, I am using standard 153, a nice midrange firing stoneware in my classroom.
Here is a link for the tapered dowel for making the spout. [ Ссылка ]
I am a public high school ceramics teacher at William Mason High School in Mason, Ohio. (Mason is currently the largest high school in Ohio!) As a potter, I have been working in clay for over 30 years, and I have been teaching for over 28 years, the past 20 have been specifically teaching high school ceramics. I love what I do! I have my own studio in my home basement, where I work on my personal pottery for my Etsy site; [ Ссылка ]
I started my Youtube channel a few years ago, to make videos to help my students if they are absent and miss a demo, or if they would like to explore more advanced techniques independently. I have been amazed to reach such a wider audience than my own students!
Please subscribe to my channel if you would like to receive channel updates, or would like to learn more about clay and studio processes!
Oh, and this will be obvious to most everyone, but don't heat the teapot itself over a burner or flame, but instead pour hot liquid into it.
