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Hey guys, it's Randy here at etrailer.com. Today we're going to be taking a look at some stabilizer jacks that we have available. Now, these are going to be jacks that can be used in a lot of different applications, whether it's going to be your camping situation, maybe you've got a new utility trailer or, like we're using it today, in an enclosed trailer. Basically this is going to provide a really good connection point between our trailer down to the ground. If you've ever loaded a utility trailer or walked around in a camper that didn't have stabilizers, there's going to be a lot of movement and a lot of shifting. Now, if you're trying to get some rest and somebody's moving around in the camper, it can be pretty annoying.
If you're trying to load something heavy up into a trailer, and that trailer is moving around on you, it can make it a little dangerous.I even see these used on the back of utility trailers when guys want to load and unload their four-wheelers or their side-by-sides to just prevent the back of that trailer from being pushed down. We're going to show you that here in a little while, let's go over a few of the specifics. You know, if this is going to work in your application, then we'll go outside and take a look. Now for our mounting surface, we're going to be looking at a four inch long by inch and seven, eight wide bracket. And we've got two mounting holes here and then one on the inside, those are going to be separated by three inches on center.
The draft leg comes down six and a half inches for a total of 18. We start with 11 and a half inches so it is fully retracted from our mounting surface to the foot pad.It's going to be 11 and a half, fully extended it's going to be 18. The foot plate is going to be three and a half inches wide by four inches long. It's going to help to spread that energy out over a greater area and help to prevent this from sinking down in to the ground. They're like most stabilizer jacks, they're going to have a nice heavy duty steel construction.
This one has the black powder coat finish on it so it should help to resist corrosion for an extremely long time. Now, as far as the static load, these can support up to a thousand pounds. So once they're deployed, they can give us 1000 pounds per stabilizer of stabilizing capacity. When you initially set them up, you do slightly lift your trailer, ever so slightly, and in that capacity it's 650 pounds. Then when it comes time to store your jack, you want to use your foot and release it.It's going to take any of the pressure off, then it's just a matter of pushing down on our tab and lifting it up, rotate it down and back up into the stored position.
At that point, you're ready to head back down the road. Now, regardless of your situation, this is going to give us a real good idea of the stability that we can expect out of our stabilizers. So I'm going to back up on here first and you'll see the back of the trailer wants to drop down, wants to lift the back of our truck up as well. So after we get those deployed, we'll see it's going to make a world of difference. It's going to be a lot steadier, we're not going to have all that bounce in our trailer.The first step in installing them are going to be picking your location once you've decided that. so you just got that flat bracket there with the two holes. I'm going to be using #14 self-tapping screws. Think these are about seven sixteenths of an inch, so three eighth inch hardware will fit through there really well if you want to go that route. inaudible 00:03:34 I'm just going to bring it up to the frame of my trailer and I'm going to make sure it's square and then I'm going to mark my inside hole location here. I'm going to get that hole started with my self tapping. Now, we'll bring our Jack back in and I'm going to use it to hold it in place while we mark our other hole. With our hole marked, we're going to pull this back down and get that one going.Now definitely one thing to keep in mind, we want these to swing in and under our trailer so the notched tab here, you see it right there, that should be facing in board. Now we'll start with our inside one here again. We're going to get this loosely installed line up our other hole and get it installed. Now you can see it, we're kind of blocked out here. So if you had a swivel end, you can probably get in here and do it. I think it's just as easy just to run it up here by hand, using a quarter inch ratchet. Every application is going to be different. You might have nuts and bolt
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