The Pennine Way is an iconic walk running the 268 miles (435km) from Edale in Derbyshire, England to Kirk Yetholm in Scotland. The route follows Britain’s rocky spine (the backbone of England) from the hills of the Derbyshire Peak District and the Yorkshire Dales, through the Swaledale Valley, across the North Pennines, over Hadrian’s Wall in Northumberland to the Cheviot Hills, ending at Kirk Yetholm, in the Scottish Borders.
The Pennine Way was the first National Trail in England, opening in 1965. It can be walked in successive stages taking about 20 days or in individual day stages. To us the difficulty seemed to be in finding accommodation. When the route was devised there were more youth hostels open along the way, or many walkers camped either in campsites or wild camped. Rest days can be taken along the way, Maybe take time to visit Hebden Bridge, Skipton or Appleby, to name just a few.
The best months to walk the Pennine Way are from mid-May to September when the weather is usually better. But at any time of the year the weather can be very poor, making navigation very difficult. Snow may be found in sections during the winter months.
Day 1 Edale to Crowden Via Kinder Plateau and Bleaklow Head – 16 miles (26 Km) 680m ascent and descent
Day one incorporates some of the best views, the 2nd longest ascent of the Pennine Way and Bleaklow hill with its notorious fogs, and navigational difficulties. After the start in Edale there are no food supplies or facilities. This was a tougher day than we imagined and we were very grateful for the miles of paving stones that have been added to ensure that the path is raised above the many bogs. The day can be divided into 2 sections, firstly Edale over Kinder Plateau to the A57 Snake road, then secondly up the Devil's Grough to Bleaklow, followed by a steady downhill to Crowden.
Due to the problems with accommodation we had decided to walk the first few days based from our home. We left home in Stockport in 2 cars, dropping the first one off at Torside car park on the A628 Woodhead Road (£4.50 with toilets), then left the other one in the large car park near Edale Station (£7.00 with toilets). Leaving the car park in Edale at 8.45am we bought a coffee and cake at the nearby Penny Pot Cafe. We headed north along the main road through the stunningly located Edale village, past the Romper pub on the left, before arriving at the Old Nags Head 250m (820ft), the starting point of the Pennine Way. Both these pubs provide evening meals and accommodation.
We departed at 9.15am taking the signed path through a gate, with a stream to the right, 5 minutes later through another gate and emerged onto open pasture with birds swooping overhead. We headed west through the sheep filled fields, through Barber Booth, passing Crowdenlea Farm, then turned right up a small road. On
arrival at Lee Farm check out a small cow shed on the left which is now converted into a small museum of the local area. We continued up the road through a gate arriving at an old packhorse bridge at 10.15am, check out the ancient ford across the stream too. From medieval times packhorse trains went this way across the high Pennine moors carrying goods like salt and cotton from the west, which were exchanged for coal and lead from the east. The path splits here, with the left being less steep for the packhorses, we took the path to the right up the strangely named Jacobs Ladder. It is named after Jacob Marshall who farmed at Edale Head in the 1700s, he cut steps into the hillside to make the track easier to climb. Fifteen minutes later the paths rejoin by a large cairn-Edale Cross, before the packhorse trail continues to Hayfield. We stopped to admire the views to the right over the River Noe, and back down the Edale Valley. Continuing uphill the path is narrower, but obvious, and we arrived at the top of Kinder Low 633m (2077ft) at 10.45am, with its white trig point. (3 miles, 1.5 hours). From here there are fantastic views over Cheshire, North Wales and South Lancashire and is well worth the walk.
We turned right and headed in a northerly direction, along the obvious path running along the edge of the Kinder Plateau, before arriving at Kinder Downfall at 11.45am. At this point the river creates a waterfall over the edge of the plateau. A famous sight is, if a strong westerly wind is blowing the water blows back upstream, and can be seen from many miles away. We crossed the stream continuing north, passing a large cairn on our right which marks the edge of the plateau. The path then falls steeply down to a junction, one path coming up Williams Clough from Hayfield, one heading east to the Snake Inn, and our path to Bleaklow. (12.30pm 6 miles 3 hours).
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