The connection between fashion and economy is often indicated by frequent changes in style. Extensive textile production, development of new techniques, designs of novel patterns, the regular publication of woodblock-printed pattern books were amongst the sectors of economy devoted to the ever-changing supply of garments in early modern Japan.

In this presentation, Monika Bincsik, PhD, Diane and Arthur Abbey Associate Curator for Japanese Decorative Arts, focuses on the history of Japanese kosode (robes with small sleeve openings at the wrists, worn by both women and men) from the Momoyama (1573–1615) through the mid-Edo period (1615–1868) and highlight the changes of modes and styles. Dr. Bincsik discusses how political and social changes affected the T-shaped garments, introduce women whose tastes changed the direction of kosode designs, and analyze the development of the Keichō, Kanbun, and Genroku kosode.

We also see how certain decorative techniques influenced the popularity of trends, and the revolution of patterns after Miyazaki Yūzensai (1654–1736) created a new paste-resist dying method (yūzen). In the 17th century, the wives of wealthy merchants were engaged in “style competitions” (date kurabe) and designs by famous artists such as Ogata Kōrin (1658–1716), Hishikawa Moronobu (1618–1694) and Nishikawa Sukenobu (1671–1750) also became favored. At the same time, pattern and color choices of court ladies and warrior-class women were distinct. Furthermore, kosode styles were different in Kyoto and Edo thus we will observe how these two big cities competed in the world of brightly colored, exquisitely embellished garments.

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