It stalled out on the freeway and won't start. To the house on a rope. First of all, I checked the fuel supply, unscrewed the fuel supply pipe at the ramp and tried to start it. Fuel is running fine. I removed the spark plugs and checked for spark, no spark. There is voltage on the coils. So it's not about the candles and the coils. Fuses are all intact. The air supply is on. So there is no launch synchronization. The output is the same as last time the crankshaft sensor. A lot of things have been written about the timing, and how to understand it, including, here is a link. About how to fix the balance shaft, in my previous entry. Dismantling showed that the crankshaft bolt broke off AGAIN !, just no luck. The rest of the bolt had to be carefully drilled out. The crankshaft sensor has wear on the inside, apparently rubbed with a plate, the question is why. Also, the diagnostics revealed a faulty timing belt tensioner regulator. Along the way, when disassembling the air intake, I checked the filter, definitely under replacement.

While waiting for parts.
There was a new rear engine mount, even from the previous owner. I decided to change, although the old one still looks decent.
I disassembled the torpedo, after inspecting the cabin filter, the replacement is unambiguous

To remove the crankshaft gear, I had to tinker, the photos show a lot of rust, so it was not easy to remove. The puller helped with the modifications. The gear must first be carefully moved with a slotted screwdriver, otherwise the puller will not hook.

Checking the crankshaft sensor, found in the vast forum of the galant club.
First of all, you turn off the sensor, turn on the ignition (you don’t turn the starter, it’s useless) and measure the voltage on the sensor chip. Red wire 12 volts, green 5, black - zero. You take a wire and close green with black. The car should crackle with nozzles (there will be no spark, do not pay attention to this). If it does not crackle, there are problems with the controller or wiring. Then you stick a thin bare wire into the green wire connector and connect the sensor under test. The idea is to measure the voltage on the green wire with the sensor connected. If there is nothing magnetic in the gap of the sensor, there will be zero on the wire. If you push a flat screwdriver into the gap or turn your knee so that the piece of iron that is on your knee gets into the gap, it should show 5 volts.

As a result of all the work done, the sensor was checked by the described method, for replacement, as expected. New sensor and plate, work great. Key and gears checked, no damage. Tags have been posted. Car won't start, no spark. The tags were re-tagged, the result is the same.

Along the way, roller bolts were ordered, the heads were licked. Since the candles also need to be changed, ordered.
Also, during the last oil filling, the oil filter did not change, it is also under the order.

Conclusion: Can something else fail besides the crankshaft sensor? Found a similar situation. Let's take a look at the electrical. Camshaft sensor test, coils, high voltage wires, transistor.

Checking the camshaft sensor. How testing takes place.
Option one.
Full description here.
Sensor diagnostics using an ohmmeter

An ohmmeter (multimeter) can be used to measure the resistance of the crankshaft sensor winding. A properly functioning sensor will show values between 550 and 750 ohms.
Such a test with a tester (multimeter) consists in checking the resistance of the coil of an inductive sensor. Since with a damaged coil, the characteristics of the sensor will be displayed primarily on the resistance. We set the desired range and check with probes at the terminals. Such a check is the most elementary and simple, therefore it cannot give 100% confidence that the diagnosis of the sensor is correct.

Option two.
instruction is here

Test result: open resistance (shows infinity). Power is supplied to the sensor. There are practically no changes on the control wire (there are in millivolts, I assume that this is just interference). I didn’t cut the wires, I just used the usual terminal blocks with wires and connected the cartoon to the manager’s gap. I ordered a camshaft sensor.

I put in a new camshaft sensor and the problem persists. I'm tired of butting this poop...

It was advised in the Misubishi Galant community to pay attention to the switch (it is also called a power transistor). For some reason, there is no manual for diagnosing a transistor specifically for my engine. As a result, I ordered a new power transistor, I will compare the characteristics.

After replacing the power transistor, everything worked. About testing it. Measurements showed that on a faulty output voltage it was about 6-6.5 V (which did not change when the starter was scrolling), and on a good one it was 11 V with a slight jump at the time the starter was started.

#engine #Carwontstart #MitsubishiWontStart #engine4G64 #TheSunnyFamily

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